The Advanced Embroiderer’s Bucket List

Eileen's Machine Embroidery Blog

  1. Continuous embroidery

     

    Since we love embroidery, we also love LOTS of embroidery!  Filling a border or quilt strip with continuous embroidery is number one on the advanced embroiderer’s bucket list.  There are several ways to attack connecting designs end to end but they all result in the same great look – luscious colorful stitches, stacked end to end.  Read more here on how to connect designs, end to end on any machine.

  2. Linked Embroidery  Linked embroidery takes continuous embroidery one step further. Linked embroidery is when you want to take a single design and turn it into something like this.

    Eileen's Machine Embroidery BlogEileen's Machine Embroidery BlogEileen's Machine Embroidery Blog
    Linked embroidery involves overlapping the designs in a continuous and predictable pattern.  Again, there are a few ways to do this but one of my favorite techniques is explained here: http://dzgns.com/blog/2012/05/creating-continuous-embroidery-with-alignment-marks/

    Or watch another technique here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9JP7iP-xEk&feature=player_embedded#!
     
  3. Continuous Applique

    Eileen's Machine Embroidery Blog

    The wave border on the Seashell quilt is made of two fabrics: the quilt top is white and the appliqué is the blue batik– both are 43” long.  A fun but challenging technique, continuous appliqué gives the illusion of a giant hoop when in reality it’s multi-hooping on a home embroidery machine. It’s a quite a bit easier with a flat magnetic hoop like Snap-Hoop but here’s how you do in a standard hoop: http://dzgns.com/blog/2010/05/continuous-applique-with-stipple-seashells/
     
  4. Stitch a matching set of terrycloth towels.
    Eileen's Machine Embroidery Blog

    It always cracks me up when a brand new embroiderer tells me she bought an embroidery machine so she could monogram towels. I know it looks so simple but boy can it stymie the best of us. Let’s break it down: terrycloth is bulky, loopy and easily damaged by pulls; life expectancy is long and includes frequent laundering; plus towels comes in sets that are expected to be exact replicas of each other and coordinate with other items (hand and bath towels, shower curtains, trash can liners, etc).
     
  5. Embroider a Ribbon

    Eileen's Machine Embroidery Blog

    Now that you’ve stitched a perfectly-matched set of towels, wrap them in tulle and swaddle them with an embroidered ribbon. If that doesn’t scream personalized – then nothing does!  Select a sheer ribbon, use water soluble stabilizer and hoop on a cutting mat to get the ribbon square in the hoop. Add a personalized message and voila! Instant gift card!
     
  6. Reverse appliqué

    Eileen's Machine Embroidery Blog

    How do you do reverse appliqué? Add the appliqué fabric to the wrong side of the garment and trim the garment away.  Sounds scary but if you’ve mastered ordinary appliqué then this is a no-brainer.
     
  7. Cutwork
    Eileen's Machine Embroidery Blog

    It’s beautiful, timeless and time-consuming. Each opening is cut away by hand before the beautiful satin stitches are added.  But oh wait, it’s not that time consuming anymore. Today, your machine can transform with a cutting device.  Learn how Bernina and Baby Lock and Brother 10-needle owners do it.
     
  8. Insert a Zipper with the Embroidery Machine

    Eileen's Machine Embroidery Blog

    Many sewists struggle with inserting a zipper between two pieces of fabric.  No wonder, it can be a daunting task.  If you use your embroidery machine, be confident that you’ll get professional results. Just remember to keep the zipper tab AWAY from the embroidery foot. Download the zipper design here.
     
  9. Design and stitch an embroidery layout for a jacket (front bodice or jacket back and other details such as collar points, cuffs, hemline, etc). You’ll have to rely on your fashion design skills to pull this off. Keep in mind that wherever the embroidery is placed, you’re bringing added attention to that area of the figure. All fashion should be flattering so if the embroidery is going to accent a figure flaw, then change it up! Frame the face, create long, slimming vertical lines or sprinkle designs delicately across the canvas.  Have fun but remember, you’re trying to improve the jacket.

    Eileen's Machine Embroidery Blog

  10. You tell me. What did I overlook? If you need a refresher on the newbie and intermediate bucket lists, just click here and here.   Leave a comment and tell me what task you think should be added to the Advanced Embroiderer’s Bucket List.  

 

Thanks for reading!

Reprinted with permission from Eileen's Blog.

 

评论 (2) -

Thank you for all the info. I have learned so much from reading blogs & forums about machine embroidery. When I rest, I pick up my computer & read.


I love all the info you share.. it is great!! Love the ribbon. It looks really elegant! I am going to try the continuous embroidery.... as soon as I finish the quilt...hahaha I love the cutwork on the above t-shirt... (I think it is a t-shirt?) Love it!


I have taken a few of your classes with your stitching sister... loved them...


Thanks


Clem


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Updates Aplenty

Updates Aplenty

Maybe it is my age, or maybe it is just because things change, but so often, I think of things I could have added to previous blogs.

As you are aware, my blogs are all my personal experiences that I share with you.  I appreciate it when someone comments and adds their suggestion, knowledge or idea to my blog.  It gives us all an opportunity to try new things and share expertise at all levels.  I recall the story of Edison, the inventor of the electric light bulb who gave the issue his own viewpoint, and what had been an unsolvable issue a product.  I am sure that after that event, others came along with new and innovative changes and enhancements.  Evolution is not limited to humans.

So, let's get started.

  • My very last blog was about a way to hoop things that you want to be centered or placed at a certain spot. I noted that I used two sheets of tear away stabilizer. I did not mention that I generally do NOT hoop both of them. I may use a piece of scrap, assuming that it is large enough, and position some glue in corners or edge so that the glue does not interfere with the embroidery. There are two reasons for this: One is the glue gets on the needle making it sticky and two is that saving money is important to me and those scraps of stabilizer are valuable.
    When I float a scrap piece, I usually put it inside the hoop. However, if I start to embroider and find that I need more stabilizer, I can place it under the hoop.
  • I have used this "secret" for about 4 years without a single problem. I have read and heard not to do it, but I have had success, so here is a tip you can take or kick to the curb as you please:
    I use canned Silicon spray that you will find in the automotive department, and perhaps in your own garage, to lubricate my thread. Gasp! It works for me but let me give you a few cautions:
    • Spray away from everything including your machine. I spray on a newspaper section and spray very lightly.
    • I spray the entire thread area. I spray the front and back, and you will see that it is slightly ‘wet.' It is not really wet in a water sense, it is silicon. Let it dry completely, it only takes a minute or two.
    • While I spray my thread, I spray my thumb and forefinger and rub the needle.
    • Never spray on a floor, painted area or item that may become too slick to handle, like a glass or the like. You will, in this order, fall, be unable to repaint or hold on to an item. 
    • Make sure you understand that this should not be inhaled or otherwise taken into the body. 
    •  
  • I just read a tip that I want to share with you - the tip said that you could fold up some water soluble stabilizer if you had to embroider over a seam like you would find in a jean pant leg.  You would use it as a 'step down' from the thick seam, down to the folded stabilizer and then down to the fabric.  Well, it did not work for me. . . Perhaps I did not do it exactly right, but it was as difficult to sew as the seam.  Instead, I used a rubber mallet to pound the seam down - gently for sure, but just enough to help the embroidery work in a tough area.
  •  

  • Attention all Newbies!! (We love you!!!!!) If you started embroidering within the last 2 years, please, please check the Tension on your machine. You can do that by using the ‘test' in my Needle Blog. You need to repeat this test a few times per year, or if you are experiencing "nesting" (loops under the fabric) or uneven top stitching. If your adjustments don't help, it is time to get thee to the technician.
  •  

  • Rayon or Polyester? Well, this is a fun question. There was some discussion in my "What I Wish I Knew" blog - near the beginning of my blogs! In that same blog, there was a great discussion about obsolescence in all things, not limited to embroidery! Things are changing all the time and embroidery is having a boon because, for the home user, it is a relatively new craft. I estimate (I have no specific dates) that the home embroidery market came on site coinciding with the Internet. That puts it around 20+ years.
    So, back to the question, what is better Rayon or Polyester? The answer is - - it depends. For instance, Rayon was once the only thread, exception is silk, with sheen. Polyester has caught up, more or less, but you need to inspect the thread itself. Some polyester is dull; however, it has ‘wear ability' that Rayon is a bit short of. Polyester will withstand jeans, sun and bleaching, not so much with Rayon. Rayon has its fine points, for instance, it is wonderful for heirloom/keepsake types of projects. The coloration, IMHO, is more beautiful. Keep both on hand, I have not found a problem with using them in the same project. If anyone has a different experience, I would like to hear from you - please do comment at the end of the blog.
  •  

  • This is something that I have done for a long time, and I find that when I am having difficulty, I simply slow the machine down.
    I know that we all Ooo'd and Aaa'd over the speed of a new machine, but when the chips are down, sometimes a few minutes extra time with stitching is just the ticket. My machine does 800 stitches per minute, but slowing down to 600 or even 350 stitches adds very few minutes and if it prevents a rethreading, the trade off is nonexistent.
  •  

  • I just got my very first (used) Serger, and frankly, you who already have one have been keeping this secret too long! I have had so much fun just learning to use it that I am not sleeping as much as normal - - yawn! I do have a tip for you, when you bring your new baby home, take a lot of photos of where the settings and threads are. If you have one, you know what I mean. If you are considering one, ask for a demonstration and take your digital camera - borrow one if necessary. Make sure its battery is charged and make a video of the demo. Try to be where there is little or no background noise and ask a lot of questions, silly or not.
    Threading is challenging but well worth it.
  •  

Til next time, thanks for reading, your input is really appreciated!

Comments (9) -

Thanks for all your great ideas!  I am not sure I fully under-stand what exactly you are spraying the silicone on.  Please clarify because I think you're onto something very helpful!


Susan


I never use silicon spray.  Instead, I use titanium coated embroidery needles.


Occasionally I use Sewer's Aid (silicon) found with the sewing notions when a particular thread wants to be"knotty/naughty.  Run a bead of the silicon down the length of the spool.


Another use I happened upon has to do with sewing and not ME - I needed to attach Velcro to fabric and only had stick-on.  I ran a bead of SA along the stitching line before sewing and it worked like a charm.  No gumming or thread breakage.


Note - silicon tends to be a bit oily, so use sparingly.


Congratulations on the new toy, Pat.


I have used a serger for many years and recently moves up to the Babylock Imagine (air jet threading of the loopers.


There is one book that I have found helpful for using the serger - Nancy Zieman's "Serge With Confidence".


Most sergers have a threading guide inside the front door of the serger.


Always be sure the thread antenna and loopers are raised to their highest positions.


Raise the presser foot and if your serger has tension settings (some are auto), set them at zero to release the tension.


Begin threading from right to left, then reset the tension and lower the presser foot.


Stitch a chain of thread to test the stitching before serging.


ONE MORE TIP - once you are successful in threading, never let the machine run out of thread.  Those darned loopers can be a nightmare to thread.


When the thread gets low or you want to change the thread, cut near the spool and tie off to the new spool.


Check the knot to be sure it will hold.  Raise the foot, open the tensions and gently pull the threads through.


Happy serging!


Lots of good information... I'll have to come back and read it all again.  I have the Imagine Wave Serger, is much easier to change threads than my old serger.  I was told about this 'easy' way to thread this one and my 6 needle embroidery machine.  I am not at the stage that I want to waste 12 to 18 inches of thread.  May come some day, but not yet!


I have debated giving the silicon information for a very long time - probably over a year.


I do use it sparingly, I spray about 12" away from the thread, but do spray around the whole spool.  I do wait 2 or 3 minutes for it to be 'dry.'  When I have thread that may be a bit on the dry side, and breaking, this stops it immediately.  


Please don't use it if you feel uncomfortable.  I tried to say that in the blog.   Be sure you never spray close to your machine!!!!!


Pattiann - I love my new serger.  I have been playing and playing and - well, it goes on and on.  Perhaps you might do a 'guest blog' for us to know more about projects.  You don't have to do a dozen blogs, just one or two to help us better understand this amazing machine.  


I understand that you can do things, even zippers (removing the cutter) with it.  Mine is an oldie, probably 10 or more years old and purchased used.  It was the best money I have spent in a long time.  I have been playing with items that were going to a charity.  Those old clothes have found a new life as play toys for my machine.


I am making a request for more information on Serging.  Any one else?


Pat


I found this stabilizer that is not suppose to stick to the needle.  Have ordered and will give it a try.


Could not find any at ATG with the same claim, or I would have gone there first.


www.shoppersrule.com/.../index.html">www.shoppersrule.com/.../index.html


I too have seen the claim that an adhesive stabilizer does not 'stick' to the needle, but have yet to have one that meets that claim.  


I do use titanium needles.  They stick less, but if I run my fingers down the needle, I can feel a drag.  With the silicon, I feel a lot less drag.


Adhesive is supposed to stick. . . .


Pat


Hi All


Congratulations on your new toy Pat. I have been thinking about a serger for a long time. Have not made the plunge yet. I have just paying off my sewing machine, will have to wait.


I have used the Floriani sticky stabilizer and have not had a problem with that. It has not stuck to my needles.


About the silicon.. I wonder of the Sewer's Aide or Sew Eze or any of those sewing aides are the same as the stuff you get in an automotive store? As sewers we have found lots of things in unconventional places. I know one of the differences is the odor, but as Pat has said, spray away from machine, etc. etc. One of the differences is the fact that the silicon for sewers is in a little bottle, where the automotive stuff is spray. Other than that, isn't it the same? Just wondering.


Thanks for all the info. I have been gone a long time and now am back.


cme


I use wax paper under my project. It tears away so none is left . As the needle goes throught it the sticky does not get on the needle.


                                              Judy


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