The Avid Embroiderer Presents - Tips for Doing A Design Multiple Times and a Halloween Freebie

I was doing hankies for a Bride who wanted multiple hankies with the exact same wording and embellishment on a dozen hankies. There were some things that I learned from this project. (Then again, I learn from nearly every project I do!)

Here are those tips and some miscellaneous tips as well:
  • Take a really good look at your 'motif/design/embellishment' to be sure it meets your vision. For instance, if you are doing a formal look, be sure your design is not casual.
    • Make the "Discovery Sew" on the same fabric if at all possible. The "Discovery" will give you the possible errors that could happen.
    • One issue is that you need to check the digitizing to see that it is in keeping with your look. There are many designs out there that use simple/basic stitches on a bird's wing when it needs to be slanted in the wing's natural flow. Freebies are notorious for this, but I work hard at giving you something that you will be pleased to work with.  If you are doing a 'cartoon car' that has a simple look, simple stitches will work just fine, but it is not OK for linens on an elegant table.
    • Make sure you have details that are going to hold up to multiple uses and washings.
  • Layout all of your pieces to be embroidered. That may not be a problem with napkins, but there could be surprises there as well. A single piece could be flawed or need to be spot cleaned. Don't take it for granted that you have a perfect set!
    • If you need some for men and some for women, be sure to layout the correct number (I just did an extra lady's hankie on this order.)
    • If it is for kids, check for 'special requirements' for a tote for instance. Doing it right the first time is better than doing it over.
  • Review your thread for quantity as well as quality. Old thread can be a problem.  If you have an 'easy to find' thread and feel you can pick up another spool anytime, be aware that dye lots can vary, so the same thread from a different dye lot can be a problem too. Murphy's Law - If it can go wrong, it will.
  • Make a template for hooping. When you have 3 or more like items, one of them being out of line will be recognizable, sometimes to even the most casual observer.
  • Take a good look at your project before you remove it from the hoop. That goes for all your work, just a brief look can fix a very small issue. If you have removed it from the hoop and discover a small, repairable glitch, don't forget to check out my blog on rehooping.

   

   



It really just boils down to that old adage - Plan your Work then Work your Plan. Some things never change, computers or not.

I was out of black prewound bobbins and needed to wind my own. As the bobbin was spinning merrily along, the top flew off like a UFO, I think it was headed for Texas. . . The result was this very attractive loops of black thread. I am still trying to think of how to make use of this hairy jumble. After all, Halloween is right around the corner.

 

Later, my needle needed to be changed, my blog on needle tips was one of my very first blogs in 2008. I read over it and it still is valid AND it has the tension test for your machine. When was the last time you did a tension test??  I was using my oval screwdriver and wanted to share this with you. Because this driver is easy to lose, I have attached a metal clip to it so that I can find it easily. 


 

A Freebie with a message if you need to put a Spell on someone - - -

Come in for a Spell.zip (157KB)  



The Publishing date for this blog is October 7, 2016. It was one year ago on that day in 2015 that I had medical issues that were death's wake-up call for me. Remember to say "I love you" those who mean so much to you. You don't know what the future will bring. 

I love all of my readers, specially hugs those who remembered me when I was recooperating.

Comments (2) -

Great tip! May I ask which kind of stabilizers do you use for hankies? Are the hankies the generic ones for the store?, thanks!!

Thank you for asking!

The stabilizer I use is Floriani's Heat Away. I stopped using BadgeMaster because it added a step to the process, washing and awaiting drying of the hankies. You can see my blog on that here: community.annthegran.com/.../the-avid-embroiderer-presents-a-stabilizer-tip-and-a-freebie-of1  

I still LOVE my BadgeMaster for other things and if I had a delicate (antique for instance) hankie, I would use the BadgeMaster and gently soak that type of hankie.

I was getting my hankies from a wholesale vendor but found them at Kohls at 9 each for $12. That is just about the same as wholesale, and often on sale,  and easily picked up rather than wait for my mail order.  

Pat, The Avid Embroiderer

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Does size matter? Well, that all depends.

Does size matter? Well, that all depends.

Size matters if you have a design that’s 5 inches wide and your largest hoop is 4 inches wide. Size matters if you want to make a border along the edge of a tablecloth. Size matters if you want to combine two or three designs, each the size of your largest hoop, into one big design.

First the cardinal rule for hooping. Always use the smallest hoop possible. In other words, if you’re stitching a 2” by 3” design, use your 4” by 4” hoop rather than the largest one you have. The less play in the hoop the better it is for the stability of the stitch-out. In addition, why use a huge piece of stabilizer when you can use a smaller one?

Now, that said, if my largest hoop is 5” by 7” and I want to stitch a design that’s 6” by 9 inches, what should I do? Well, of course, I could always reduce the size of the design using Catalog XPress or any other software program what will re-calculate the stitches. But I’ve found that machine embroiderers like designs larger, rather than smaller. My solution is to cut the design into two pieces, save them as two separate designs and sew them out in sequence, re-hooping between the first and the second. Okay, you’re going to need some kind of embroidery design editing software to do this, and you have to choose a design that has an obvious place to split it like the one on the top left side of the page. I’ve drawn a bright pink line to show the place I’ve chosen to split the design.

  • First import the design into your software, showing your hoop.
  • Next, slide the design over to the side so that only the first portion of the design rests in the hoop.(1)
  • Now, zoom in closely and, using your cutting tool (2), carefully draw along the edge of where you want to split the design.
  • Pull the two pieces apart. (3)
  • Okay now, pay attention. If you goof up this part you’re going to have to start over.
    1. Right click on the part of the design that’s out of the hoop and select “Cut.” (Or Ctrl>x)
    2. Save this design as “design_name-1.” (4)
    3. Now either Undo (Ctrl>z) or right click and Paste (Ctrl>v). You’ll now have both pieces back on your screen.
    4. Slide the pieces back together, using your arrow keys, if possible, to insure that the pieces stay in the same plane.
    5. Choose an open path running stitch in a color that is not in the design (5) and draw carefully along the edge of the first design that meets the edge of the second design. Take in as much of the first design as you can. A preview of this step won’t show in a small thumbnail, but you’ll see it in the next step.
    6. Delete the first design (the one you’ve already saved), slide the second part, along with the running stitch you just drew, into the hoop.
    7. Correct the sewing order so that the running stitch will stitch first. The first segment must be a different color from the next part of your design because you’ll need the machine to stop after the line is stitched, but you can make it a color that will match part of the design. (6)
    8. Save this design as “design_name-2.”
    9. Print both design pieces. (7-8) I like to print from Catalog XPress because it will put cross-hairs in the centers of the designs.
    10.  Cut out the designs and put them together with tape. You’re going to use this as a template for centering the design when you sew. (9)

Stitching it all together
You've done the hard work. Now it's time to stitch your design. PLEASE sew a sample first. We don't want to be ruining any brand new silk blouses.

  • Hoop your garment, tote, or whatever. I'm sewing this on a fairly small t-shirt so I've hooped stabilizer, sprayed it with temporary embroidery adhesive and placed the shirt, centering the first part of the design in the hoop. (10)
  • Carefully attach the hoop to your embroidery arm and center the needle exactly over the center of the first design. (11) Close is good enough. We're just making sure that the design fits in the hoop here.
  • Remove the template and start stitching.
  • When part 1 is finished, remove it from your hoop and hoop another piece of stabilizer. For this part you must use either a sticky stabilizer or temporary embroider adhesive. In order to line up the designs you won't be able to actually hoop the garment.
  • Put the hoop on the machine and sew just that alignment line. (12)
  • Remove the hoop from the machine and place it on a flat surface.
  • From the back, fold back the part of the design you've already stitched and carefully place it on the hoop, snugged up against the alignment line. (13)
  • Very carefully smooth down the rest of the garment, being careful to not pull it away from the line you've stitched on the stabilizer.
  • Return the hoop to your machine and stitch the second part of the design. (14) Your garment is already properly aligned, so you don't have any measuring to do. Just start stitching.
  • When you're finished, well, here it is! (15)

A few quickie tips
Because I was stitching this for a child I used soft nylon stabilizer and cotton thread in the bobbin. Ordinarily I would have used an adhesive backed stabilizer, but this was a knit and the adhesive backed stabilizers are tear aways. Had I wanted to use an adhesive backed stabilizer I would have hooped cut away stabilizer underneath. That way, when I tore the adhesive backed stabilizer away, the cut away would remain to stabilize the knit fabric.

Again, because this was a little shirt, I turned it inside out before placing it in the hoop. I wrestled with hooping little t-shirts for several years before I realized that if I just turned the shirt inside out it would be a lot easier, and much easier to keep the excess shirt from getting caught in the stitching.

Which brings me to . . . You have to baby-sit garments with spare parts hanging around. The minute you leave the room your machine will see that you're not there and grab a sleeve or collar or hem and catch in up in the stitching. If that happens often the only way to get the hoop off the embroidery arm is to release the foot and cut it out of the garment. You don't have to stare at it, but stay nearby.

 I see that we finally have the new and improved cordless Peggy's Stitch Eraser in stock. I may have to spring for this one. I keep mine in a drawer with the cord going out the back of the drawer to the plug. Cordless is a good thing!

I'm hoping everyone's summers have gotten off to a good start. We'll have 3 of the grandchildren with us for a few days. We haven't seen them since Christmas and my hugs are achingly empty.

Click here for a printable PDF file for this project. 

That's all for now! TTYL,
Ann


 

 

 

 

 

 

Comments (15) -

Ann:


I'm curious about what would be done differently with a reposition hoop, which I have for my Brother PE180-D.  I'm guessing that dividing the design would be the same, but "guessing" is the operative word here.


Rita


Rita, if you have the repositionable hoop hoop from Brother, then PE Design will split the design for you, saving it in either 2 or 3 files. You just stitch them in the order in which they're saved  (you'll also see the correct hoop position on the screen on your machine) and it's painless. However, you couldn't do a design that's wider than the narrow width of the hoop. That's why I used 7" x 9"  in my example.  The repositionable hoop can't handle that.


euginamorin 6/28/2008 2:05:03 PM

I want to print this "Does Size Matter" for future use


please advise how to go about doing that.


Thanks


This is one excellent Blog!  Thanks for assisting us through this difficult process.  I am going to try it soon.


EUGINAMORIN, click on "file" at the top left side of your browser and select "print." That should do it for you.


I sometimes have trouble with using the 'file/print' instructions Ann uses.  Different systems will have different results.  If you need an alternate method, try checking out this:  www.annthegran.com/cs/forums/p/826/3336.aspx#3336">www.annthegran.com/.../3336.aspx


It is one of the methods of printing.  Naturally, there are others.  I hope this helps.  


Pat


sewinggranny 6/29/2008 7:56:15 AM

I have tried printing this information and it will not print..  I saved it to my documents and then tried printing but to no avail.  


I've converted the project to a printable PDF file. You can find it here:


www.annthegran.com/.../Does%20size%20matter.pdf">www.annthegran.com/.../Does%20size%20matter.pdf


sewinggranny, I've added a clickable link to a printable PDF file at the bottom of the blog. If you're not able to print that, then I'm afraid I've run out of ideas.


Hi Ann  In the few weeks that I have been reading the blogs I have learnt more than in the past few months from other sources -now if you can lead me in the right direction of what digitizing is all about I would be really getting smart    Doreen  


sewinggranny 6/29/2008 12:32:15 PM

Thanks for the info on printing.  Got it.  I had not seen it earlier.  The only excuse I have is that I turned 74 today and guess my brain is  on  a day off.  Thanks again;


Thanks for the excellent instructions!


What software are you using to do this?


Rosie


HAPPY BIRTHDAY, Sewinggranny!


You're my idol!!! Still trying new technology.......You GO Girl!!


Happy Birthday sewinggranny!  Remember, white is the new Blond!


Thanks for the 'pdf' file!  What a great idea.  I love it.


Pat


cherylfaxon 8/13/2008 1:25:52 PM

Okay.....so now I really feel dumb again.  My only hoop is 130x180......pretty small.  This would be an excellent tool for me,  but I need to know if you are using some sort of program to do it,  and what is the "cut tool".  I have a really old machine, pretty basic,  and just got a "Little Max" as a trade in on my 12 year old Amazing Box which I had never used.  Can I get some guidance ?Thanks ! ! !      Cheryl


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