AnnTheGran’s Lazy Way to
Create Large Designs
1. Choose a design that is easy to separate into 2 or more parts. Most simple line drawings will fit this criterion.
2. In your graphics program, or in Design Center, "cut" the design apart.
3. Progress to Stage 3. Adjust the lines, pulling the separated lines back together.
4. Using the separator tool (in version 2, use the line drawing tool, setting it to not stitch in Stage 4), re-draw the outline of the part cut away. SAVE!!
5. Progress to Stage 4 and check to make sure that you have really divided the design as you intended. Then fill in your colors as usual.
6. Return to Stage 3, delete the smaller part of the 2-part design and return to Stage 4. SAVE AS A NEW FILE!
7. Open Layout & Editing. Import from Design Center, enlarging as much as you can or want. WRITE DOWN THE %!
8. Save the partial design as a PES file.
9. Repeat steps 6 - 8 with the other partof the design, remembering to increase by exactly the same % as you did the first part.
10. Now you have your 2 PES files.
Preparing the Files for Assembly
This method can be used to assemble any large design or group of objects so that you can get it right every time. You do need to use one of the sticky stabilizers in your hoop to use this technique.
First, in Layout & Editing, open the design, or part of the design, that you’re going to stitch LAST, in this
case, the bear. Now, IMPORT the design, or part of the design, that you’re going to stitch FIRST, in this case, the block (or, in the case of a 3 or 4 part 
design, the part you’re going to stitch immediately before the one you just opened). Leaving the OPENED design where it is, slide the imported design until it aligns perfectly. Pay no attention to the confines of the embroidery area. You’ll have something that looks like this:
Notice that I enlarged the picture so that I could make a precise join and allowed a smidgen of overlap.
Now, select and delete the figure from the file you opened. Using the line drawing tool, 
set on OPEN PATH and RUNNING STITCH, and the color set on any that’s NOT in the design, very carefully click along the seam where the two will be joined.
Delete the figure that you imported, leaving ONLY the line you just drew. 
IMMEDIATELY save this file with a NEW name! Now, IMPORT the original file. It will jump right exactly in place on the line and you probably won’t be able to see the line anymore. Check your stitching order to make sure that the line you drew is set to stitch first. If you followed these directions it will already be set that way. Now you can go ahead and save the file 
with it’s original name, agreeing to overwrite when asked. Later you can delete the third file you created, the one with only the line, from Explorer or File Manager.
You’re back to only 2 files again, only this time one of them, the one you will be stitching second, has a hidden alignment mark on it.
Stitching
This is the fun part. I can’t say it’s the easy part, because none of the preparation was really difficult. You may want to print both parts of your design from Layout & Editing and then tape them together so you can find the center point for the first part of the design you will want to stitch and mark it on your garment.
Write both design files to your original card. Stitch the first part of the design (the block). Remove it from your hoop and trim or tear away your stabilizer. Place your sticky stabilizer in or on the bottom of your hoop (however you usually do it) and clip the hoop on the machine. Select the second part of the design on your touch screen and then stitch that line right on the stabilizer.
Remove the hoop from the machine. I like to do this next part on a firm, flat surface line the ironing board.. Lay your garment down with the back of the already stitched design facing UP (inside out, probably). Now, with the sticky side of the stabilizer facing DOWN, carefully align the stitched design with the line on the stabilizer. You can see through the stabilizer well enough to do this. It should fit precisely. Smooth your fabric and press firmly so that the garment is stuck tight to the stabilizer. Turn it over and clip the hoop back on the machine. Now stitch the rest of the design. I think you’ll find that the alignment will be seamless and you won’t even be able to tell where one design left off and the other began.