Stabilizers 5/22/08

Me and MasonWhen a group of embroiderers gather, one subject is certain to come up . . . . . stabilizers  Sad 

The stores are loaded with these important products.  Annthegran alone has dozens of different stabilizers for every need.  Some of the types are Tear Away, Cut Away, Water soluble, and adhesive, the list goes on and on.  It is no wonder we have trouble with what stabilizer to use when doing our beautiful craft. 

We can presume that some fabrics can be paired with certain stabilizers and be reasonably certain we have a good match.  For instance, if we have a very heavy fabric such as canvas or denim, we can use a light weight stabilizer for the optimum results.  In this case, I would use a light weight tear away or water soluble over the TOP giving the very best 3-D effect of the design. 

I cannot even estimate how many fabric types are available today.  Those numbers challenge today’s embroiderers  to have a consistently beautiful product.  

Let me try to summarize some of the information I think you will find useful.

First of all, if you are not already doing a ‘discovery sew’ of your project, you are opening the door to disaster.  That failure may not be apparent at the time of sewing, but failed after being cleaned.  Even Ann, Always, always, always strongly recommends that discovery sew.

 

Let’s consider some of the variables

1.       Stability and weight of fabrics,

a.       weave (cotton, polyester, blends, linen, etc.)

b.      knit (t-shirt, double knit, two way stretch, etc.) Puckering

c.       unstructured (felt, leather, fleece)

2.       stitch density

3.       stability of the design

4.       stitch length

5.       amount of detailing in the design

6.       size and weight of the resulting embroidery

7.       no puckering of design (see image at right)

8.       design does not sink into the fabric

9.       registration keeps its alignment

10.   design maintains its integrity for its useful life

 

Here are my findings on different stabilizers. 

 

Tear Away – Tear away is great for medium to heavy weight fabrics.  However, a poorly performing tear away will test your stamina.  If it completely falls apart with just a few needle holes or does not tear away cleanly, you have a stabilizer that is underperforming.  Use a quality tear away such as found here at Ann’s for best results (as a bonus, an Ann’s Club Membership saves you money).  Using two layers of tear away backing pulled off one at a time is a technique that can avoid a distortion problem. There should be some modest effort on your part to separate the tear away from your design and no fuzz left on the back of the design. 

 

Cut Away – A better selection for light weight fabrics as well as one that can remain with the design permanently, cut away tends to have more bulk than tear away, but will not distort fabric or designs. It can be used in two and even three layers on a delicate fabric.  Another great feature to cut away is enhancing colors.  For instance, if you are doing a snow scene, cut the stabilizer the approximate size of the field and place it atop your fabric at that area.  The snow area will be more dense and defined.

 

Adhesive/Iron on – Generally the strongest variety because it becomes a part of the fabric with which you are working.  Its major drawback is that frequently these will gum up your needle and/or machine.   Its best use is for super stretch items such as bicycle shorts.  Adhesives are a must because some fabrics are so stretchy they can force themselves down the throat plate with a lesser stabilizer. Be careful when applying these stabilizers to avoid stretching your fabric.  Many embroiderers use adhesives for hard to hoop items such as suede.  I will be discussing hooping in my next blog.  Be sure to mark your calendars for June 7 for my take on hooping.  I just might knock your hoops off…

 

Water Soluble – Multiple weights and ease of use are the two main attributes that make these stabilizers a work horse in embroidery.  They can be used under, over and even in between fabrics and bottom stabilizers.  Used on the top of towels, corduroy and any fabric with a loose topping will allow the stitches to remain well above the fabric.  Again, use the best quality you can afford, a few cents of savings can result in disasters making the inexpensive too expensive for most of us.  It is also used in Free Standing Lace and great for Cut Work.  I will be discussing those two specialized, and my personal favorites, embroidery methods in future blogs. 

 

Each of the above varieties comes in multiple weights.  A good rule of thumb is to match light weight fabrics to heavy weight stabilizers and vice-versa.  Don’t fear using multiple layers of stabilizers.  In the case of tear away, some tear only vertically and not horizontally.  In this case, it is sometimes effective to use two layers in a crossed pattern creating even greater strength.

Conclusions:

Ø  Create a very firm piece of fabric by use of the proper weight of stabilizer

Ø  Discovery sew with the same materials can guide you accurately

Ø  Use multiple sheets of stabilizer when necessary

Ø  Use top stabilizing for maximum thread uplift (standing off the fabric)

Ø  Water soluble stabilizers can be used in the same manner as a tear away

Ø  If you are seeing puckering as you are sewing, you are already under stabilized

Ø  You can add stabilizers after you start sewing, slipping either under the hoop or atop the design

Ø  You cannot over stabilized, but you can under stabilized

Ø  Use the best quality stabilizers you have available

Your tests and results may vary and you need to rely on your own judgment.  This blog is my findings and personal experiences.  I believe the information to be accurate and the best practices available today. 

It is doubtful that you can over stabilize.  A rock solid design, perfect registration and stitches lying just above the fabric can be its own reward in beauty and personal satisfaction.

Break the rules at your own risk, you may be able to get away with less, but you are gambling your hard earned reputation.  Stabilizers are generally an inexpensive assurance of quality.

Pat

Comments (41) -

Thank You...Thank You...Thank You


travelbug1237 5/24/2008 11:01:28 AM

OH Pat....FANTASTIC!!!!


  Thanks SO much for taking the time to write such a clear and helpful


blog on stabilizers!!!! This will be a page that can be run off and


posted right next to my machine for future and on going projects....forever!!!


  You're the greatest!!!..Well you and ANN both are...It's is very special to be able to go to a site and get accurate information by people who take the time to share and they also care!!! It sure comes through and you'll get a gazillion positive hits before it's all over. Speaking of 'hits'...I am STILL trying to give you 'gold stars'


 When I read your blog,I started hitting on top of the gold stars but in the end it didn't show up. ( I guess I need Greg for 'star ettiquette and procedures too."'  Sigh....One of these days SOMETHING is going to come easily to me!!!


I was so happy in the 20th century!!!


Just know that you should be a 5 star general by now....so if you don't have all gold stars just knows it's because some of us aren't 'blog saavy' enough to know how to make sure you get all the credit you deserve!!!!


Thanks Pat again for sharing your knowledge with us newbies and experienced alike.


Have a SAFE holiday!!


Smile


Cathy in Oregon


P.S. Is that you with one of your precious g-babies? What a doll!!!


How about parachute material?  I've tried every kind of stabilizer I have, and it still puckers.


turtlenana - What a name that is!


The first thing that came to my mind is just how slippery parachute material must be.  Are both sides slippery?  


I do not have expereince with this material, but the first thing I would do is work with a heavy water soluble stabilizer.  I would VERY LIGHTLY spray water in a superfine mist on to the fabric.  Please understand that there has to be very little water involved.


Then I would take the stabilizer and gentle but firmly press it to the watered area.  The stabilizer should slightly disolve.  Await the drying process of this area before proceeding.  The stabilizer should 'interweave' its 'sacrificial' product into the fabric.  


I would do the same to the back, being sure to wait for drying to be full and complete.


At this point, I would use a heavy tear away stabilizer.  Place that stabilizer, by itself, in the hoop.   I feel it is important not to hoop the fabric because of its silk like properties.  Silk slips and burns in hoops.  


Adhere the fabric to the hoop with a double face tape.  Use the tape on each of the four sides of the hoop.  


I hope you are still with me - - -  I will be discussing my take on hooping in my next blog which will be posted around June 6.  


Next, your machine will have a 'frame' design in its built in computer.  Use the size and shape appropriate.  Each 'frame' has multiple designs applicable to that 'frame.'  Choose the 'baste' which has no design, it is just a straight stitch and easily removed.   Baste your 'frame.'  


Your work area should be very stable.  I recommend that you gently touch the design area with your fingers to determine if you have achieved stability.


Sew out your design.  You will have some stabilizer to remove but your design should not pucker.


Please let me know how this works for you.  


Thanks for a real challenge!  Pat


This blog went straight into my embroidery notebook, great for reference. Thank you so much.


Just looking at other postings and thought of another thing about stabilizers.


Make sure you remove as much of your water stabilizer as possible with a scissor!  If not, this stabilizer reconstitutes itself and can and will cause drain problems!!!!!


I too am new at reading the blogs & me'ing.  I love it & have found lots of wonderful info about it.  I get so into reading everyone's comments I can lose track of time.


I am getting help from the sales person who sold me my Babylock Emore.  I can't make it to all classes but I can go in at anytime & set up & she will help me when not too busy.  She is an excellent teacher & so nice!


She too has taught all over.  This is my first time to write.  I am a chatty cathy, too!


joaneleanor 5/24/2008 7:33:16 PM

I just love all the blogs.  Tried to print them to no avail.So wrote them all down in my special notebook for embroidering. I, too, am new to embroidery.  I have a Brothers Machine and just love it.


Thank you for the stabilizer briefing.  I have stitched a number of large designs (requiring the 7x12 hoop) which were also very dense.  No matter what I did, I got puckering.  I used a hydro stick and hooped fabric and stabilizer.  Added a second layer of hydro stick and a layer of cut away with spray adhesive.  To that I added stitched frames and still had puckering.  Any thoughts?  Fortunately these were blocks for a quilt and that fact hid much of the puckering in the finished product.


The good news is that the designs were for a quilt but if they had puckered a lot, your ability to sew them squarely to a quilt could have been severly hampered.


You don't say the weights of the variables.  I will assume that the quilt fabric was a cotton like fabric and not already quilted.   I will assume that you used the spray adhesive AND 'finger pressed' the fabric to the stabilizer.  Most persons' fingers would be sensitive enough to detect a bubble or non-attached area.  This being done, your stabilizer may benefit from being a lot heavier.  


My next thought is about the hoop size and its relationship to the movement.  Since you need the size for your design, you need to be sure your fabric is very secure in the hoop.   A more dense stabilizer will help here as well.    Incidently, I would only use cut away here as your project will have a long and possibly tough life after it leaves your loving hands.


As you look down on your hooped project, try firmly lifting the hanging (outside hoop) sides of fabric with both hands and roll your hands toward the middle of the hoop.


Repeat with the top and bottom of the 'outside' fabric.  You should have something that is reasonably taut.   Repeat if necessary.


The next thing is to look at the corners of the hoop for tell-tale signs of fabric slack.   If there is slack, you need to roll the outside corners as above.  Do both opposite corners even if you only see slack in one spot.  


Take a screwdriver or other mechanism for tightening to your adjustment and make sure the hooped fabric is rather snug.  Don't strip the screw, but be 'in charge' of the tightness.  


Overly dense stitches can be 'aided' (digitizer should have corrected this in the design phase) by placement of some water soluble stabilizer atop the fabric before stitching.   This gives the density some give and take movement rather than pushing and pulling the fabric.


Puckering is not just one thing, it can be a combination of several or all issues.  Extra long stitches can be at fault too.  The list goes on and on.  It is the bane of every embroiderer, even those who do so by hand.


Keep me informed and we might be able to find other ways to fix this if it is still a problem.


Pat


Thanks for all the good advise! I'm so glad I've found all of you avid ME's & newbies. You're giving me all the information before I can ask the questions. How could I ask for anything more?


jennineavril 5/24/2008 10:53:23 PM

Thanks Pat, Lots of wonderful advice to print out and keep


with my stabilisers. Just a note about the silk, I am doing


the Jenny Haskins Beyond Colour Purple Quilt on silk and


am having great results by spraying the pieces till they are saturated, with spray starch and then hanging on the washing line to dry thoroughly. I dont even need to iron them then. Then I place them onto  hooped sticky stabiliser (not hooping the silk at all). Jennine in Brisbane


jalcumbrack 5/25/2008 11:07:28 AM

Pat............Not all machines have the option of selecting a basting stitch before the design. I have to do it in my software and load it on my ata card with the design so that it sews that first.My machine does not have that option on the machine itself.


Great blog on stabilizers! Lots of key information to keep handy for those of us who have memory lapses from time to time,Lol .


This info is so helpful....thank you so much Pat taking the time to compile it.  I wish I could print it out to keep, but for some reason the blogs from this site will not print for me.  Loads of good info here.....not a lot of anything else getting done at my house since I found Annthegram.


Robin


As with much of your information, I find this topic interesting and very informative.  I am new to embroidery by machine, and am just in the learning stage.  This information is great, but I would very much like to have it in my permanent notebook.  Is there any way I can print this data?


Thank you


Nelma


For those of you who want to save all of this wonderful information . . . . just highlight the text you want, right click, hit copy.  Then open your word processing program, right click, hit paste.  When you save it,  you can name the document what ever you want & keep it on your computer or print it out. It's as easy as that!


Good luck! This information is definitely worth saving!


Thank you so much, RNH!  It worked.  I am still a learnin.....


Robin  


There is always so much to learn.   Jal - I was not aware that all machines did not have basting built in.  Thanks for that info.  All of my machines do have it and I made an erroneous assumption.


RNH and AuntRobo (love that name) - great information.  I could not have said it better!!!


Pat


colleenhughes 5/25/2008 4:18:18 PM

Thanks for so much info on stabilisers for terry towelling.  I tried to print the page, but was not able to do so. I would have liked to have some hard copy of the info for future reference.  I have recently  bought a new embroidery machine which I love using, especially being able to download designs. How can I print the required info from the website? I  I thoroughly  enjoy Annthengran website, it is the greatest!


PS. Mother of 5, with 12 Grandchildren and 1 Great Grandson!!


Colleen, you look too young for all those generations!!!


Beside trying what RNH suggests for downloading and/or printing, you can try:  


left click your mouse at the point you want to start copying and drag your mouse to the point you are wanting to stop copying.  Anywhere in the highlighted area, RIGHT click the mouse.  You can select "copy" or "print".  


If you selected copy, go to any text software (Word or Notepad, etc.) and right click the mouse and select paste.   You can print from there, but you will save this document for a permanent record.


If you selected print, your printer options box should come to the screen and you print as you normally would.   You will have a printed copy but not a document on your PC.


Pat


very good  and interesting comments, I too have tried to print, I will now try again with this new information.


jalcumbrack 5/26/2008 12:42:13 PM

i wish mine did Pat,it would sure save me a lot of time ! Lol.I keep telling hubby it's time to get a new machine(I can try can't I ? LOL). I would sure like to update soon,mine is about 8 years old.They do so much more now.Great blog Pat ,Lots of info to hang onto.Thanks!! Smile


Jal - I will be sending positive thoughts your way for a new machine.   Some places have a 12 month payment policy without interest which can be really great for a tighter budget.  May your funding find its way to you.


When a new machine enters your life, it is like Christmas, Birthday and a new love in your life all to gether at one time.   I will walk on air for a minimum of - well, several months (don't look when they come out with a new machine).


Investments such as a new machine can bring so much joy into your world that I think of it as my 'guilty pleasure.'  I don't smoke, drink or gamble so that savings buys me a nice little piece of equipment that makes my heart sing.


Did I mention that I cannot draw a straight line with a ruler and two good looking engineers?  But, I can make something beautiful with my embroidery.


If I get too many sewouts or samples lying around, I donate them to my local quilt society where they place them into quilts for charities and other deserving venues.  That makes me happy too!


Pat


grammacandy 5/26/2008 8:35:47 PM

HI EVERYONE ! IM NEW AT ALL OF THIS SO ILL NEED LOTS OF HELP. CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHERE TO GET WONDER TYPE? IVE NEVER HEARD OF IT BEFORE TODAY? THANKS FOR ALL THE INFO  


Welcome to the Wolderful World of ME (machine embroidery)!!!!!


Gramma-you are going to find this craft to have the best people and products in the world and so much fun as well.


I found this Wonder Tape on Joann's site on sale for $3.00 for a 10 yard roll.  Unfortunately, the shipping is $7.00.


Well, I am going to call a few craft and sewing places in San Diego to find it.  It appears to sell for $4.95 in the stores.


Pat


jalcumbrack 5/28/2008 7:01:58 PM

Thanks Pat ! I forwarded your's to my nubby,LOL,Just kidding.


I will probably do that with the payment thing. Hubby is talking a new lens for his camera,so may be a good time to hit him up for a new machine ,HMMMMMMM !


I know what you mean about the new machine.When I got my first one I was never found anywhere but at it for months.I still am at the machine but not as much as I would like.


That is a good idea with the test sew outs. I bet the ladies up at the sewing center here would love to have them for quilting and what not.Thanks  !


I used to canvas paint,but not much any more.It is not pretty when you drop the brush and get oil paint all over everything.That is not fun to get out of anything.!So instead I have ME,that is my canvas now.


Hi Grammacandy! Welcome to ME...You will love it here .Check out Cathy's Blog...Crash Course Cathy...she is new as well so you can learn together with her.She is also a lot of fun.


Pat...great job on this blog.  I had already learned so much from reading what you wrote in the forums, and I was delighted to see you were doing this blog.


I posted a question (and some comments) about  stabilizer in one of the forums, but decided to repeat it here to see if you could answer my question, which is as follows:


"Now as to the tear away (also from Ann The Gran)...It didn't tear away easily, and I'm still struggling with getting it off the back of some of my items.  However, on one item I had not quite enough stabilizer to put on the back so I cut another small piece and adhered it to the back as well.  


When I was finished, I found the stabilizer was much easier to remove because there were more corners and edges I could use as starting places.  Is there a problem with cutting the tear away into, say, three smaller pieces as long as the edges meet?  Seems like it would be easier to remove that way.


Rita


Rita - you have been watching "Stump the Band" a lot, right???


This is a great question for a number of reasons, not the lest of which is - what do I do with all these large pieces of stabilizers that are too big to throw away, but too small to hoop.


The answer is (drum roll - like Cathy says) yes and no.   First of all, we must have a stable piece of stabilizer which is attached to the hoop and fabric.  The "slip" does not qualify for that,  but, you certainly can add the piece to the bottom or top of the sew out for additional stabilization.  


One place where a 'slip' of stabilizer works very well would be where your fabric might cause the stitches to 'sink in.'  One such fabric would be fleece.  Fleece has a modest amount of air mixed into it and it is unwoven in fabrication.  Therefore, embroidery would compress that fabric when sewn.  If you would like the design to be atop the fleece rather than pressed into the design, your 'slip' will be just what the doctor ordered.  


Additionally, water soluble pieces such as "Sulky Solvy" can be 'reconstituted' with a small amount of hot water.  I use about 20 pieces and about 3 or 4 oz of hot water and make a liquid out of the pieces.  I put them on a cookie sheet (with sides) and when dry, I have a new piece of light weight Solvy.   How cheap can I get????


Ann does carry that Sulky Solvy and I really do feel that water soluble stabilizers are the backbone of ME.  If you are using the right weight, it will never fail you.


Excellent questions!  I am delighted that you are able to pick my brain.  You remind me that there are many questions and many possible solutions.  Anyone have another idea about those little slips of stabilizers?


Pat


Pat:


Thanks for your reply.   I'm not sure about a lot of things with ME, including and maybe especially stabilizer.  


The stabilizer I used was the sticky tear away, and it made a nice tight firm and stable base for the design even though it wasn't hooped with the fabric.  Will upload pix to show you the design tomorrow (if I can figure out how to do it).


However, there is a really wonderful store up the road (like waaayyy up the road) in Trussville called Sew Bizz.  The owner, Carol Wright, has been most helpful.  She suggested that I hoop the Sulky Sticky Cut Away stabilizer, (by itself without hooping it with the fabric) then score and pull the paper off.  


The fabric can be center and carefully placed on the sticky stabilizer and it will then stick to the Sulky.  The water soluable topping can be attached with a spray adhesive.  After the design is sewed, the fabric is gently pulled away and the cut is made around the design.  That leaves a hole that you can patch with those small pieces and not have to use an entire new piece of stabilizer.  Carol said she uses and reuses the one piece of Sulkey.  If it is going to be overnight, she puts it in a plastic bag so it won't dry out.  Neat idea, huh?


I don't know how it would handle heavier fabrics, but it worked beautifully with the t-shirt I did.  


Also....it occurs to me that since this is an adhesive tear away, it could still be cut into more than one piece and laid out in such a way that there would be enough on the sides and ends to hoop with the fabric.  So my question remains the same.  Would having more than one piece work and would having those pieces make it easier to tear away the stabilizer after the design is sewn?


Rita


jalcumbrack 5/30/2008 8:50:54 AM

Rita.....I do this all the time and the answer is yes it makes it easier to tear away. I just hate to throw anything away so I use and reuse as much product as I can. Rather than cut a new piece of sticky ,I save my "ends" so to speak and that is what I use for smaller embroidery or I put them on a larger hoop by slightly overlaping them ,just a little bit.This is to make sure I get a firm ,stable area.


By making extra places to grab and tear it does make it a bit easier,but most tear away that I have found can be kind of difficult to actaully tear.Some likes to be pulled one way and others like to be pulled another.I have discovered that if I pull most of the sticky off the hoop first ,pull your work so that it is seperated from your hoop altogether, then I lay it flat,embroidery side down,then beging to tear it away ,one at a time.It does work better but you may still have some "ends" you may have to trim .I also pull it away slowly as well so as not to disrupt the stitches.I always use water soluable as well,depending on the type of fabric I am sewing ,I even may use it both top and bottom,as well as the other's. I have found also that if I take a straight pin to get underneath it in those small areas it is a bit easier to get out as well.What works better yet is to use an iron on tear away (light tack such as totally stable)along with the sticky,it tears away nicely as well.But,I have found that all tear aways do leave some frayed ends or areas that don't come off.So I just trim them as well as I can.This isn't perfect I know but ,without the sticky's and the tackys and the water souluable's ,we would really be in a mess.


If I want to have nice embroidery on both sides of the item I use water soluables on both top and bottom,or a no show mesh, if it something that may need some assistance for stability.


Does this answer your question? I hope so,sometimes I don't splain myself too well.But if not let me know and I will try again.


Great discussion!  


Rita - my only experience with adhering multiple pieces was a bad one.  The point of adherance, like a link in a chain, is somewhat less strong than the original stabilizer.   Mine actually pulled away from the overlap and caused the design to fail.  


It sounds like you may be having difficulty with removing this stabilizer.   I know that you can 'score' (slitting the stabilizer with a sharp knife) that paper.  I use an 'exacto' knife.  Paper scores easily with that knife, which is like a razor.   Fabrics do not score quite as easily.  Fabrics like silk would, however, be vulnerable.  


Possibly, a higher quality stabilizer should be easier to remove.  Check to be sure that the package says "permanent" or "removable."   I have noticed that some have instructions for permanent and different instructions for removable.


Perhaps another reader has an idea of how to help here.


Being frugal is an asset.  But I would decide, based on the project.  After all, a christening gown is different from a halloween tote.  


Don't forget that a sheet of stabilizer costs perhaps 25 cents.  What is your time worth?


My goal is to have a product that is as perfect as possible and if I have to sacrifice some bits and pieces of stabilizer, I can live with that.


Pat


jalcumbrack 5/31/2008 8:49:25 AM

Maybe it is the difference in machines,don't know,but I have never had a problem with the embroidery not coming out wonderful. I just make sure that when I put the pieces on the hoop that it is firmly in place . I have done this multiple times on all types of fabrics,from hand towels to baby clothes(including a christening gown) and never had any problem.


 I rarely use an exacto knife either as I have ruined many things with it. Eileen showed us a method at the community circle to just take a pin to score it with,it would be safer except on maybe a towel where you could catch the loops.My hands don't work as well as they used to,you have to be too careful with them,so I have a pair of smaller scissors I use instead.It's safer .


Just trying to help Rita by letting you know what works for me. What works for one may not for another. Sorry.


dellingerbeverly 5/31/2008 11:02:30 PM

I am always ready for new ideas and these are great!!! thanks so much  for all the great ideas! you make my life easier!!!   Bev


i AM NEW ON YOUR BLOG. Enjoying all  the hints. I do a lot of embrodiery. We are always out there to learn more--and we do


What can I do with embroidery patterns that are itchy on the underside of a t-shirt?  My nieces just don't like that heavy stiched, itchy feeling.  


Your helpful hints certainly do help when there is no one to ask!  Thanks


Do you know anything about this Badgemaster WSS?


I am trying to figure out what stabilizer to use.


I am making pillow cases and the fabric I am using is a light weight broadcloth.  The design I am using is very dense.   I get pucker when I am finished.  I thought I could use this WSS in the hoop and make a patch and put the design on the fabric that way.  I have used two layer of tearaway and WSS on the front and I still get puckers.  Do you have any suggestion?


Kathymary- There is no definative answer to your stabilizer question.  I wish there were.


The first thing you need to keep in mind is that machine embroidery, ME has so many facets to it.  One is the weight of the fabric. Second is the density of the design.  Three is the hooping.  Four is the stabilizer.  I could go on and on.  The thread and needle size matter, etc.


Rule of thumb (ROT):  The lighter the fabric, the more stabilizer will be needed.


ROT: Cutaway is considerably stronger than tear away stabilizer.


ROT: Two layers of stabilizer is not a lot.  I might use two layers of heavy weight cutaway AND possibly 'float' another piece under the hoop.  (not attached to hoop)


ROT:  Dense designs on light weight fabric is usually a recipie for problems.


ROT: Did you do a "test out?"  That is one of the most important and often neglected part of good ME outcome.


I could go on.  However, show us a picture (in the photo section) and we might be able to see something else.  To upload a photo you can use these directions:  


www.annthegran.com/cs/forums/p/666/2162.aspx#2162">www.annthegran.com/.../2162.aspx


Pat


Thanks for the info Pat on flannel embroidery.  I'll try the water soluble.  I've done a few with 2.0 cutaway and it appears to be stitching out OK, but will try your suggestion as well.  Deb


alssweetheart 8/22/2008 12:21:04 AM

Hi Pat, What a great blog!! I think I will really benefit from it!!


You need to change your profile, it says you have 6.5 grandchildren~~looks like 0.5 is now 1.0 : )  


He sure is a cutie pie : )   Congratulations.


Carol


Hi - all your blogs are wonderful - yay and thank you!  What is the best way to stabilize for tshirts and baby bibs - oh-so stretchy!  Water soluble on top and bottom?  I've tried that!  Tear away?  nope.  Also - to the blog about attaching hair ribbons side by side to iron on stabilizer and then monogramming - what happens after?  Does the iron on stay with the hair ribbon?  Does it remove?  Sorry, but I'm a newbie too!  Thanx in advance!   ntapple


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