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Macali-ism's by Rick Macali

Artistic teaching of embroidery digitizing, lettering and all-around good fun.
  • Redwork

    Welcome to 2010 .. the New Year has me off working on my designs site.  It is truly a daunting task to find art that you are allowed to replicate and sell, digitize it, sample it, load it on the site, define the design, and ready it for sale and distribution.  No matter how tough, our staff can do it.  One of the sections that I have added and have been working on is our REDWORK section.  Redwork seems simplistic, but, when you are trying to digitize for it, it is not as easy as the final product looks.

    For those that don't know what REDWORK is, redwork is an embroidery design that uses red thread (originally called "turkey-red" in the late 1800's).  Today, with the availability of many colors of thread, the term redwork is now used for a certain type of embroidery; any color of thread is used now to trace the outline of line-drawings .. some are simple designs, and others get quite involved.  Redwork is enjoying a revival of sorts, which I directly relate to the internet and the designs available on embroidery design sites.  Redwork is typically found on quilts and home furnishings (coverlets, dish towels, laundry bags, pillow covers, etc.).  The 'commoners' in the late 1800's used cotton thread due to its availability and color-fastness; wealthier folks used silk thread.

    For you history buffs, redwork was originally called the Kensington stitch due to the fact that it was created at the Royal School of Art Needlework in Kensington, England.

    Some think that redwork is solely running stitches, whether they be stem-stitches or quilt-stitches.  It is not commonly known that satin stitches can be used sparsely in redwork designs to fill in small areas, and where dots are needed, the french-knot is a great stitch to use.

    All these factors come into play when digitizing for redwork.  First, I treat the design as a typical embroidery design; I load the art on my computer screen and visually run through the design to see how I want it to run.  Typically I try to make the design run without any trims so it starts and doesn't stop embroidering until the design is finished.  Now a trick my grandmother used to use when she did this type of work by hand was that she would use TWO strands of thread for areas that need more of a dense look and stuck to one strand for the lighter/finer areas.  Remember, the lighter floss thread she used to use was much finer than our standard 40# embroidery thread we use on our machines.  So, today I CHEAT!  I repeat segments of the design if I feel an area needs more density.  I also use light satin and light fill stitches for effect, also.  Grandma wouldn't be impressed with my machine embroidery skills, but she'd be proud that I'm not in jail !!

    Other than the larger thread size, the tools I use for redwork on embroidery machines are similar to the delicate tools used by hand embroiderers.  The needle that I use is a light-weight size 65/9 so the needle penetrations are small for the delicate work.  I also try to limit the use of my backing.  When I feel I can use a backing, I use a light tearaway.  When I think a backing will be "distracting" to the work, I use a water-soluble topping as my stabilizer; I do this often, not just for redwork.

    Some recommendations that I would make regarding your redwork project:
    Make sure the thread you use is colorfast.  Items that adorn redwork are typically laundered.  And, red thread typically migrates TO the material during laundering, so, takes all efforts to further set the color by soaking it in water/vinegar bath (my mom's idea, so don't blame me if your pillowcase smells like an Olive Garden's salad).  
    If you are going to digitize for redwork, try to stick to ONE or TWO stitch types.  Remember, redwork is supposed to be a one-color design and simplistic in it's look .. no matter how difficult/complex the design is.  And, be concerned with designs with TOO much detail may not work since the design is done in all one color.  
    Great themes for redwork are days of the week, holiday designs, bible stories, and nursery rhymes.

  • Needles and Thread .. best recommendations

    Hello everyone.  Had some spare time in my new married life and wanted to touch base with this great community!!

    I have been emailing my customer base about needles and thread and how my experience may help those that are either new, or, just have never given these two important tools much thought. So, please read and enjoy this post and let me know your thoughts.

    If you would like to catch up on past emails that I send to my 1800+ registered users of our digitizing service, you can follow me on Twitter (www.twitter.com) as Rick Macali (www.twitter.com/RMacali)

    Needle size

    Todays high-speed embroidery machines are asked to do quite a few different tasks than they were just 15 years ago.  As a digitizing firm, In House Digitizing sees its fair share of our customers creativity.  Having the luxury of working with one of the top retailers in the country, and now they have expanded to Europe, they have made us change the way we look at things .. we have turned the uncommon into common.  The majority of our customers are contract and retail embroiderers.  Their shop ranges are from one head to over 200 heads.  These customers usually look for the common embroidery techniques  used  to  create  stunning  corporate logos and decorative embroidery.

    Proper thread usage

    After the needle email that went out last week, I had more than 20 replies asking about the best thread to use.  I will let everyone know that we use Madeira Classic Rayon 40, but, that doesn't mean that is the best choice for everyone; it is the best choice for us.  As a digitizer, and a long time machine-operator, the thread that is used can make or break your design, and sometimes your day.

    Generally, I'm sure that all 'good' sewing threads have a good sewability and have aesthetic appeal.  I'm not going to detail a z-twist versus an s-twist thread, you can research that yourself, but, commercial and home embroidery machines use Z-TWIST threads.  I hear many stories about production  facilities that get great deals on thread from overseas factories, get it in and it won't sew for anything .. the thread is usually old, or more common s-twist thread.

    The two common embroidery thread types are RAYON and POLYESTER, and they usually come in weights of 30#, 40# and 60#.  The higher number, the finer the thread.

    What to watch for in your thread choice

    Elongation:  All thread has a stretch to it before it breaks; polyester will stretch more than rayon, which has little stretch to it.  The longer a thread stretches, the more chance you have looping on your embroidery.

    Reliability:  Some threads are made better than others.  Some threads can be thinner in spots making the thread weaker in that area.  Also, depending on the brand you use, it can have an abnormal amount of knots in the cone that can hinder productivity.  It's not just that the knot can't make it's way through the needle's eye, but, thread coming off the cone can catch on the knot still in the cone.

    Strength:   Its breakability can be measured in your embroidery production.  Continuous filament thread like polyester and rayon have a greater tenacity, or strength.

    Proper twist:  There is a definitive twist to the 2-ply embroidery thread.  A thread with too much or too little twists can cause many problems with your embroidery.  Commercial embroidery machines, by their nature, will ADD twists to thread during sewing.  This will add twists to a z-twist thread and actually untwist an s-twist thread.

    Common Thread Type Comparison

    RAYON
    Brilliant color
    More colors
    Runs smooth

    POLYESTER
    Stronger
    Colorfast - harsh washing
    Less expensive

    Z-twist versus S-twist

    Thread breaks
    Wrong thread for job
    Wrong or damaged needle
    Thread defects
    Bruised cones (dropped)
    Excessive elongation
    Too much tension
    Worn machine parts
      - thread path disks
      - take up lever
      - all guides
      - burr on hook
      - needle plate

    Needle parts

    Needle

    Notice the NEEDLE POINT starts at the top of the needle's eye.  A light weight ball point is the best needle to use for knits.  Stay away from sharp points on knits as you can cut the knit your are embroidering.  Also, if you find you are cutting alot of knit material while you are embroidering, start by replacing your needle(s).  Probably the MOST common cause of this is a burr somewhere on the needles point; many times, undetectable by sight or even touch.

    Best regards,

    Rick Macali
    In House Digitizing
    407-509-2400
    http://www.inhousedigitizing.com

  • Monogramming your own Wedding Gifts !!

    So, in the last year, I was lucky enough to get engaged, survived the familiy phone calls asking me about her, made it through an engagement party, a bridal shower, meeting her family and more people than I could ever hope to remember .. and, tomorrow is the rehearsal dinner and in two days .. the best day of my life!!

    We received a lot of great gifts from our family and friends .. but, I would like to make note of WHAT we didn't get ..
    Don't get me wrong, we are greatful for the wonderful things people purchased for us .. but, NOT ONE is embroidered or monogrammed !!

    We received sheets, bath towels, kitchen towels, blankets for the house, blankets for picnics, napkins, cloth liners for the hamper .. his and her grilling aprons .. all perfect for monogramming .. but, nothing, or as my Italian grandmother used to say, "Assolutamente nulla!" (Absolutely nothing!)

    So, I make mention to my mom about how nice it would have been to have had all these decorated with embroidery or monograms .. she tells me that she made sure that no one had them monogrammed because I would have been too critical of the work, and that I CAN embroider and monogram them !!

    Oh well .. she's probably right !!

    * Lastly, all our designs at www.embdesignsnow.com are on sale for $1.99

    Until next time,

    Rick Macali

    www.inhousedigitizing.com
    www.embdesignsnow.com

    RMacali@inhousedigitizing.com

     

    Posted Sep 18 2009, 11:00 AM by RMacali with no comments
    Filed under:
  • The embroidery business in today's marketplace ..

    "Hello, yeah, it's been a while / Not much, how 'bout you
    I'm not sure why I "blogged" / I guess I really just wanted to talk to you"

    ~ hmmm, that sounds familiar ..

    OK OK .. I've taken some time off, but wedding plans are really eating up my free time ..
    I long for the days where the girl and her family plans everything and the guy (me) just shows up and gets married.
    Really, does that piece of cake taste ANY different than that last 14 pieces we tried??!!  My mom makes a great Texas sheet cake, she could easily make about 20 of them in 2 days, freeze them for "THE DAY" and everyone would be happy ..
    The BEST part of these plans, then we'll move on, is me monogramming the wedding dress while my mom, her mom, sister and aunt HIDE it from me while I'm hooping and embroidering it !!!  Where was the camera then??!!  If it's straight, it will be a miracle.
    * By the way, THE DAY is September 19 and I couldn't be more excited about anything in my life !!  Her name is Mary Kay and she is going to be a wonderful wife and mother .. I just know it ..

    NOTICES: 
    1. www.embdesignsnow.com is NOW functional
    2. Digitizing lessons are still offered at my office in Florida, and look for our new ONLINE digitizing training set .. coming soon

    EVENTS: 
    1. ISS Chicago, IL .. if you plan on attending, please visit me at the Tajima/Hirsch booth
    2. November 2009 / embroidery seminar in Phoenix and Los Angeles .. if you are interested, please email me: rmacali@inhousedigitizing.com

    To business at hand ..

    Every day, as an embroiderer, my clients come in and ask me to quote them on work.  After hours of doing costings and even more time worrying about whether other embroiderers are quoting them, I find myself just concentrating on breathing in-and-out as I must RELAX!!  I sometimes forget that NOT EVERY job is lost on price alone.  As a matter of fact, customer do not decide to buy from us because of our price; but, customers do decide NOT to buy because of price -- that is not the same thing.

    Here is the Macali Top Ten (ok, 12) reason why customers will purchase from you even if your price is not the lowest:

    1. Customer relationship:  Make life easy for your customer to do business with you.  They want what they want when they need it .. "it's very simple, Norman."

    2. Reliable/Dependable:  Just as in your personal/family relationships, and, sometimes more because your family USUALLY loves you no matter what, customers like to know they can rely on you.  Plus, this just adds to YOU being THE go-to person

    3. Predictability:  It becomes your reputation.  Customers keep a track record in their head.  How you treated them in the past is what they will expect in the future .. under promise and over deliver !!  Words to live by .. hey, that's how I got engaged !! Stick out tongue

    4. React to THEIR needs:  All customers want to separate themselves from the rest of the pack.  I hear, "I want to be different than the other guy," all the time .. so, I tell them, "Good, the other guy's terms are 30 days, your terms are Due on Delivery!"  Seriously, treat each customer the same and YOU will benefit.

    5. Delivery:  Again, under promise and over delivery .. if you can deliver sooner than quoted, you're a hero and you can charge what you want.

    6. Value:  If you offer tangible items other than embroidery (screen printing, transfers, seamstress work, etc.) then you stand a much better chance to keep your customer under one roof.

    7. Customer service:  We all like to be "babied."  None more than I.  I know I will pay a higher price for someone to take me from step one to the end without me having to do extra work .. not work, but EXTRA work

    8. Customer problems:  There are times when my customers make a mistake .. I can more afford to "help" them if my prices are higher than lower.  Customers are more likely to pay a premium price to someone who can genuinely help them.

    9. Pricing/Quoting:  Customers are more likely to sell YOUR services if your price list is easy to understand and follow.

    10. WARNING:  Most importantly, if there is an issue with shipment from your vendor OR by you, let the customer know.  If the job is pulled from you to another vendor, there is a better chance they will be back for other work versus you don't say anything and they can't deliver at all.

    Best regards,

    Rick Macali / 407 566-1533
    rmacali@inhousedigitizing.com

    www.inhousedigitizing.com
    www.embdesignsnow.com

    yahoo messenger:  inhousedigitizing
    msn messenger: pulsedigitizing

     

  • How a computer stopped an embroidery business ..

    Computer repair can be costly, I don't just mean out of pocket cash .. but, cash that doesn't reach your pocket because your computer issues are halting business.  As you can probably tell, I have been MIA for the last 2-3 weeks.  Blame the computer .. I spent hours of my time trying to rig the problem myself before I broke down and approached a computer tech.  All that resonates in my mind is, "Out of warranty."  But, it wasn't my fault, "I'm sorry sir, but for $69/year .. " 

    I'm here to tell you, warn you, beg you .. take care of your computer if you rely on it every day like I do.  Let me cut to the chase and fill you in on the end story:  Computer and it's owner are all fine and resting well!  I had to "scrub" my hard drive .. that means cleaned fresh, like wiping a blackboard .. all information GONE and irretrievable.  Then, I had to reload the Operating System (Win XP Professional), all the drivers, and all my programs.  Luckily, I was taught well by a computer tech 10 years ago and have all files and data stored on an external hard drive.  I owe that man a steak dinner.

    MOST problems we have with our computers can be avoided through proper maintenance.  Please review the 5 tips that I TRY to practice:

    1. MOST IMPORTANT:  SAVE all the CD's that came with your new computer purchase.  Sure, I had to delete my hard drive by wiping it clean, but I have the original Operating System disks and all the disks of the software that came loaded on my computer.  The manufacturers site is also a great tool.  I was able to download new and updated drivers from their site.  I won't mention the brand name, but, it rhymes with BELL.  I know of people that have had issues with them, but, I NEVER HAVE.  Even with out of warranty issues, they have been helpful.  So, if you need to wipe your hard drive, make sure all your program CD's are available with your driver CD's as well.  OH, and don't forget to file away the product keys !!  Those are very important also.

    2. Back up your important data NOW.  Finish reading this post, then collect all your important files, dump them into My Documents, purchase an external hard drive and move them all there.  I use my external hard drive as my drive of choice.  All customer art, digitized files and emails are saved on this hard drive.  Luckily, embroidery files are very small, so I don't need a huge external, but space and ram are extremely inexpensive today.  You can probably recover data from dead hard drives, but it is expensive.  Very expensive.  And, to let you know, my external hard drive is backed up online, it's worth the money ..

    3. Anti-Virus software needs to be loaded and can be running all the time.  If by running all the time interferes with your downloads, reconsider whether you really want it running all the time.  Some softwares have the ability to program times to run the anti-virus software.  All anti-virus software doesn't need to be purchased.  There are a few good free softwares that I know of, but, I choose to purchase mine.

    4. Often, either at the store, office or trade show, my friends, guests and customers simply ask, "Can I use your computer for a moment?" or, "If I can just jump on your comptuer for a moment .."  Nonsense.  If you share your main profile or allow people to use your computer, be ready to face the consequences.  What can you do?  Create a limited access account on your computer that you can sign into and that guests can use.  And, this is for my mom .. keep liquids away from your computer !!

    5. Lastly, don't be afraid to ask for help, even if your help is from Google.  I spent hours, and hours turned into days, on trying to fix what I thought was a simple fix.  It was simple, after I asked someone to help who knew what they were doing.  It was humorous, he asked me, "Rick, do I try to embroider my own shirts?!"  Point taken.

    Coming next week:  Embroider and applique fish bowls on childrens clothing.

    Thanks for worrying about me !!

    Regards,

    Rick Macali \ 407 509-2400

    www.inhousedigitizing.com

    www.embdesignsnow.com <-- Opens July 3, 2009 / your spot for embroidery resources

  • It seems the art has 100 colors, what is a digitizer to do??!!

    I just had one of those embroiderer and 'can't make up her mind' customer interactions.

    The antagonist of the story, played by the customer, is a great water color painter -- if you don't believe her, just ask her -- and, she brings in 3 water color paintings.  Well, I couldn't tell if two were water color paintings, or an attempt to use EVERY color in her Brookstone's, Bob Ross Paint-by-Color set that she received for Mother's Day.

    These paintings would have made Claude Monet wish he were a house painter, or maybe a matador!  However, one of them did catch my eye, and I thought to myself, "wow, she really can paint."  And, at just the moment I'm thinking that, she tells me, "these two are mine, the one you like was my inspiration, and, painted by my sister-in-law.  THE LIGHT BULB WENT OFF!  Her sister-in-law's painting used a few, but effective colors.  They were neatly blended into a beautiful, impressionistic resemblence of the exterior of a gardener's shed.  It was so well done, you could almost smell the potting soil and the musty wood floor.  In an interview late in his life, Monet even mentioned the few colors he used in his paintings, "I use white lead, cadmium yellow, vermilion, madder, cobalt blue, chrome green.  That's all."  All that inspiring art in just FIVE COLORS!!  You kidding me??!!

    Back to our story .. Ms. Color-icious wants me to digitize the art that SHE created so it can be embroidered on organza and framed.  Her idea is to paint someone's house and landscape and have it embroidered and framed.  Then she is going to sell it to them.  My reply was, "what a great idea, now, tell me, what are we going to do about all these colors?"  She asked, "Oh, what do you mean?"  Now, my life flashed back to my time at the University of Florida when I registered for an Art Appreciation class.  I can distinctly remember asking myself WHY would I EVER have any reason for taking this class other than the fact that I needed one last elective.  Alas, THIS was the time it came in handy, and, I was ready to seize the moment .. Carpe Diem, O Captain, My Captain.  I went on for 10 minutes about the age of minimalism and the transition from realism to impressionism and the difference between Monet and Manet .. yes, there was a difference, and not just one letter.  However, just when I thought I had her understanding me, she went on to a dissertation about the artist's eye, and the artist see's this, and the artist expresses that, and the artist has the hand, and the artist and the artist .. and the artist ..

    .. and the artist ..

    So, I cut to the chase.  The cost of her wishes.  Well, the look on her face when I told her the digitizing fee, the actual embroidery fee and that my machine ONLY holds 15 colors, and, if she wanted me to manually change the threads during the run the price increased by X .. her look brought me back to a more simple time, a more innocent time ..

    .. all I can tell you is her look was the same look as my mom gave me when I told her that we super-glued Richie Cotrels head to the garage door to see if he could hang there like the man on the Super Glue commercial. 

    Hey, we were 10 years old .. stop laughing, his hair grew back .. though, I believe his DNA became an eternal part of that garage door on Dravis Avenue in Girard, Ohio.  Oh, we would look at it and laugh later in life .. it acted as a gentle reminder of how lucky we were not to kill each other with our hair-brained ideas.

    Further drifting from the purpose of this blog .. another part of that story just came back to me .. it's 1993, my 10 year high-school reunion, and Eddie Sprovorio brings out a recipe card sized hunk of white paint and wood 'taken' from THE garage door .. and, there was still hair in it!!  When he was able to liberate that from the garage door, no one knows, and didn't ask .. but, what a story.  You can't make this stuff up!!

    So, getting back to the point of this blog .. so easily side-tracked, we are! 

    Just as good art is minimalistic and impressionistic in it's presentation, so is good embroidery.  The more colors you add, the more confusion you add to your embroidery.  Here is a good example.  When I create leaves, if there is room for 2 colors, I only use 2 colors .. but, I change the stitch direction on both sides of the leaf so I give it some direction and the light catches the thread at different angles creating the look and feel of more than just one or two colors.  Stitch direction, stitch length and how it reacts to the light can highly influence the look and feel of the design.  The second color of the leaf is used for highlights.  The second color is usually in the same color family of the leaf, just a bit lighter.  I use the same technique when it comes to flower petals, as well.

    Look at the embroidery below.  Notice how gentle the secondary color is added.  Notice the stitch direction changes and the subtle highlights.  If you use the "less-is-more" philosophy, you can create beautiful embroidery very easily.  Many reds can be reduced to ONE or TWO reds, and the same goes for any design with a plethora of colors.

    Hope you enjoyed reading this as much as I did writing it ..

    Best regards,

    Rick Macali / 407 509-2400

    www.inhousedigitizing.com

    www.embdesignsnow.com

    Tattoo Flower Crucifix

  • Freestanding lace ~ how, why .. where??!!

    First, I must announce the new site that has been 18 months in the designing, redesigning and making:  www.embdesignsnow.com. (Site should be up and running on Monday)

    ANY and ALL embroiderers should really take a look at what this site is offering.  In short, this site is our customers site.  We have taken recommendations from our customers, we have incorporated 3 wish lists from our customers and my competitors customers have asked, "why don't you do something like this?"  WELL, we did it .. ENJOY.

    NOW, I have spent the last 4 weeks learning lace, digitizing for lace, running lace and making free standing lace.  It is amazing what an old-dog can learn .. and, really enjoy ..

    Freestanding lace (FSL) designs are embrodery designs that are stitched on a special stabilizer that dissolves in water .. what you are left with is the FSL design or designs.  Digitizing for lace is much different than digitizing for standard embroidery designs.  Only designs digitized for freestanding lace designs will be stable after the stabilizer is washed away .. other designs will typically fall apart.

    FSL designs have much higher density segments, or a much higher stitch count versus non-lace embroidery designs.  A digitizers goal with non-lace embroidery designs is to create a beautiful piece of embroidery with as few stitches as possible, when digitizing for lace, the stitch count is incredibly higher.  If you see spaces between your stitches, that is a tell-tale sign that your lace won't hold up when the stabilizer is removed.  The satin, or zigzag stitches need to be tight with a high stitch count.  Some embroiderers rely upon the weave of the fabric to support the segments, but, I like to digitize a run stitch under the satin segment and that will support the lace. 

    My water-soluble stabilizer of choice is Vilene.  It is extremely thin and a non-woven .. this is why I build my support with underlay.  Because Vilene is so thin and depending on the complexity of the design, I may opt for 2 pieces of Vilene.  So, I hoop my water soluble stabilizer, place the hoop on the machine and now I should be ready to create my FSL.  But, before I begin to sew, I should know what look I am trying to achieve.  For fine delicate lace, I will sew both top and bottom thread with bobbin thread.  For a heavy looking lace design, typically for bowls or doilies, I'll use 40# embroidery thread for my top and bottom thread.  But, typically, a medium-standard lace look is my goal and I'll use embroidery thread on top and bobbin thread on the bottom.  Remember, if you are doing bowls or doilies, you will want the top and bottom threads to be the same color, so spin some bobbin thread from your embroidery thread cone.

    The design I will run is a repeating pattern, or series of patterns that have been digitized for FSL.  Running the design is the easy part.  Load the design, press start and let it run until the design if finished.  Tips on "tools" to use:  I use a 75/11 ball point needle to sew FSL.  I like to use size 65/9 for my embroidery because they are finer, and less intrusive on the garment, but for lace, I need a larger needle that will help cut the stabilizer during the sewing process.

    Once the design is finished sewing, trim all the excess water soluble material and soak the embroidery in a bowl of luke-warm water .. hot water will dissolve the stabilizer faster, but you run the risk of shrinking and distorting your FSL .. something I learned the HARD WAY.  After about 15-20 minutes, take the embroidery from the bowl and leave the slippery "junk" in the bowl.  Then, I will place the embroidery under cold running water, I use my fingers to remove any residue left from the stabilizer.  The longer you rinse the embroidery, the softer your lace will be.  For stronger, more firm lace, I recommend a little starch, OR, if you are willing to take a chance, reduce the time the embroidery is in the water by half, and don't rinse under cold water.  The stabilizer will stiffen as it drys. 

    After you are happy that all the stabilizer is gone, place the embroidery on a couple layers of paper towel and left to air dry .. I don't like to use cloth towels because your embroidery can pick up lint, or, if the towel is not white, it may take on some of the color of the towel.  Now, you're going to laugh at me.  When the embroidery is almost dry, I place it on a $2500 heat press that we use for printing t-shirts and press the heck out of it !!  BUT, it is flat and dry after about 20 seconds. 

    THIS is how I make FSL, and the best tips a beginning "lacer" can give you .. and, for a life-long commercial embroiderer, it is a blast to create this.  I add lace to TOURIST t-shirts and they love it. 

    Lastly, your lace does not have to be free standing.  You can take FSL designs, arrange them and sew them directly on garments or non-wearables.

    I hope this helps, and answers Maria van Duinhoven of Windsor, Ontario.

    Best regards,

    Rick Macali / 407 509-2400

    www.inhousedigitizing.com

    www.embdesignsnow.com <-- new site for all home and commercial embroiderers

  • Digitizing Training ~ The RUN Stitch

    Sorry for taking the week off .. I really like to prep for Mother's Day .. after all, my Mom is THE Queen and I really like to dedicate the whole weekend to her .. cooking, cleaning, taking her shopping and and out to a nice dinner and maybe a movie (though there isn't much at the movies her or I feel comfortable watching together these days!).  There is an interesting wrinkle in this year's Mother's Day .. my mother-in-law to be ..  I'm not sure about protocol, so I will be looking to YOU for some guidance!!  DON'T steer me wrong here people!!  We're not getting married until September, but, do I still graciate her with a card, present, phone call??!!  HELP !!

    Oh well, on to the important things at hand.  This is a quick lesson about the run stitch, it's properties and proper usage.

    Q:  What is a run stitch?
    A:  The run stitch can be called many different names:  run, travel, walk, basting stitch, etc.  We use the Run Stitch for digitizing lines, moving from one segment to another, it is used as underlay for fills and satin stitches.  Run stitches can also be made bolder by doubling up or even tripling up.  We call the doubling up of a run stitch a repeat, this is where we run from point A to point B and then back from point B to point A.  You can triple up the run by then again going from point A to point B again, or, when you triple a run stitch, we typically call this a bean stitch and we use a different tool and digitize it exactly as we do a run.  You typically repeat a run or use a bean for outlining areas. 

    The run stitch is, as mentioned before, is a row of single stitches along a line, straight or curved.  The distance that each needle penetration is apart is set by digitizer if the default set by the software manufacturer is not proper for the run stitches application.  The run stitch measurement is typically in millimeters.  If the area the run is to be used is a tight fitting area, a smaller LENGTH will be used, but if it is roomy or the run stitch has to travel from one end of the design to the other, the length will be longer.  The minimum and maximum lengths I try to "abide" by are 1.8 mm and up to 5.0 mm.  Five millimeters is just smaller than 1/4 inch, and that is quite long for a run stitch by itself. 

    The diagram below shows the makings of a run and a bean stitch.  The run stitch is pretty self-explanatory, so, let's disect the bean stitch.
    You'll notice that the first stitch [1] moves from west-to-east, stitch 2 back from east-to-west and stitches 3 and 4 make two moves from west-to-east at a length determined by the segments parameters.Run Stitch Diagram

    There are so many uses for the run stitch:  Travelling from one part of the design to another, used as underlay under satin stitches as an edge walk or center run, used as underlay under fill stitches as a light density fill or doubled up at 90 degrees to make a lattice underlay.

    It is safe to say the run stitch is the base of all your embroidery designs and the most used of the three stitch types.

    If you have any questions about the run stitch and how it is best used in different situations, please don't hesitate to post a question below.

    Best regards,

    Rick Macali / 407 509-2400

    www.inhousedigitizing.com

    www.embdesignsnow.com <-- new site coming May 11 / don't miss this site if you are a serious embroiderer

  • Art to stitches - what kind of art works well

    Q:  You hear stories of beautiful embroidery designs created from sketches on a bar napkin.  Is that true?
    A:  Though I may have had gotten ideas from sketches, the better the art, the better the embroidered design will be.

    Your software undoubtedly can import a wide array of art.  The two most common catagories of art are raster and vector art.

    Raster artwork consists of JPG, BMP, TIFF, Photoshop files and images obtained through MS Word or PowerPoint files.  Though these files are the most common to be found, the main problem with these files are that they make digitizing less than 100% accurate, and, it changes the FUN FACTOR to actual WORK!!  Raster images rely on pixels and screen resolution, and when you enlarge a raster image, the detail, or the pixels do not generate to the larger size; just like a stitch file.  When you increase the size of a 2,000 stitch design to double it's size, you still only have 2,000 stitches and a design that doesn't look too good.  The same thing happens when you try to increase the size of a raster image.  If you double the size of a 1" image at 72 pixel-per-inch, or ppi (usually mistaken with dots-per-inch), you wind up with a 2" image, but now it's clarity is 36 ppi and the edges get dithered, or looks to be created by little squares with jagged edges.

    Vector artwork consists of AI, CDR, EPS and DXF files.  Vector artwork is mathematically generated by drawing programs such as Adobe Illustrator (AI files) and Corel Draw (CDR files); they both can produce the generic vector files as EPS and DXF.  As a matter of fact, digitizing embroidery designs is very much like working with those two programs.  Embroidery programs create wireframes (segments) that hold information that dictate what type of stitch type to use; it also knows what density, underlay, stitch length, pull compensation, etc. to use per the digitizers value input.  The previous mentioned art drawing programs typically do the same thing, but, not for stitch types, but for art segments.  Each segment that is created consists of a fill color, border color and weight of the border line.  In the previous example, we doubled the size of a raster image to only find out that the image looks worse.  However, when you increase or decrease the size of a vector image, the fill and border of that segment is mathematically calculated to be resized proportionately.  Raster Vector Comparison

    Here are images of a raster image and a vector image.  Notice how easy it would be to follow the perimeter of the vector file versus the perimeter of the raster image.  And, this raster isn't that bad, imagine if there were 3-6 colors involved.  If your embroidery software supports vector drawing tools, you can first use those to better define the lines of the raster image to make the digitizing process a bit easier.  It takes more time, but, I feel better prep = less editing. 

    Q:  OK, now that I know the difference between vector and raster art, where do I get the vector art?
    A:   Over the past 5 years, due to technology, it has been much easier to obtain vector art from your customer, or their graphic artist.

    Keep in mind, most everyone that has a business card has had that art created by a graphic artist .. or, someone that SAYS they are a graphic artist !! ha  If you can locate the printer where they had their business cards done, you are close to obtaining their vector art faster than David Caruso solves his crime on CSI: Miami.

    Before I tell you the MAIN reason that I like vector art, I want to warn you about one pitfall that can occur when dealing with vector art and those people that call themselves graphic artists .. and, those occasional mistakes made by people who know what they are doing.  When someone creates a vector logo, typically, they will add text to the logo .. they don't create the text, they use their keyboard lettering and the fonts stored on their computer under START>CONTROL PANEL>FONTS.  The fonts that are stored on your computer are true-type fonts; they are used for emails, writing BLOGS and, they are used by all your computers programs.  These fonts are in vector format so you can control them like you do the segments that you create in the graphics programs.  But, because it is programmed for keyboard lettering, in your drawing program, they are automatically grouped together and must be treated differently.  Because the true-type font is programmed and saved on the computers hard drive, if a graphic artist sends an art file to a customer, and that file includes a font that the customer doesn't have, the customer will not be able to view the design as the artist does; in short, if I use a font 'you ain't got,' your computer will substitute another font for it.  Your system will REPLACE the unknown font with your default font, probably Arial or Tahoma, but, that is not the proper lettering intended to be used for the design.  So, when I get designs to digitize that contains a true-type font that is not loaded on my computer, when I attempt to open the file in Adobe's Illustrator, the first thing it tells me is that, "This file contains a font not found on your computer, it will be replaced with Arial."  IF I don't catch this, I digitize the art, using the wrong font, and, my customer thinks I'm smoking funny cigarettes when they view the design!! 

    When the graphic artist sends out files, they must convert the grouped text segments to outlines or curves (the terminology depends on what program you are using), this breaks down the true-type font into simple segments so anyone can view the file as it was intended to be seen.  Here is one reason I like customers to send us not only a vector file, but, also the corresponding raster, typically in JPG format.  Raster images are like camera shots of the vector file.  I can quickly view the raster image, and, if it doesn't match the corresponding vector, I know the artist doesn't know the difference between stitches and shinola!

    Once you get the vector art in the proper format, digitizing on most systems becomes a heck-of-a-lot easier.  Remember, I mentioned that if you digitize with your embroidery tools, you are creating vector segments that carry embroidery stitch type information?  Well, imagine if I can introduce a vector file into my embroidery software, click on it, and TELL it what stitch type I wanted it to be .. pretty cool, huh?!  Well, we do, and you can.  Someone took the time to create the art in vector format, how arogant am I to think that I can recreate their artwork better than them??!!  I use their vector segments to create embroidery segments by simply selecting the vector image, and telling what stitch type I want it to be.Vector layers > JPG flat image

    Now, keep in mind that vector art creation is mucho-mucho different than embrodiery design creation .. they use layers on layers on layers, and, if I were to digitize like that, the CIA would use my embroidery in their bullet-proof vests rather than Kevlar; not to mention how FUN my customers would have trying to sew a design like that. 

    Look at the elephant vector and raster image to the left.  From all those vectors, we get the more simplified JPG, or raster image.  Here is an instance when I would MUCH rather have the JPG to digitize from versus the vector file.  

    The above vector is an example of a file that would be a nightmare to digitize from, and, a file where I could not use the existing vector segments to convert to embroidery segments.  So, when the vector segment allows it, I will use those to create my embroidery segments, when it doesn't, I can either alter the segment and then use it,  simply create it with my embroidery tools, or prefer to use the raster image to digitize from.  When it is between option and , my decision is made by whichever is quicker .. and, then me recreating only the area I need is usually faster.

    vector design 1

      Finished design 1

    The vector file to the left demonstrates easy to select segments that can be changed to embroidery segments.  The art looks simplified, but you can achieve great results with a little embroidery knowledge and experimentation with your digitizing skills as seen on the embroidery file to the right.

    Vector versus Raster artwork in review:
    -  Vector art is great because it is resolution independent, has smooth, easy to follow curves, small file sizes, and can be easily converted to embroidery segments.
    -  Raster art does have its advantages.  They are the most common digital photo images, and, they allow for color correction easier than vector files do .. this is important if you get into direct-to-garment shirt printing.

    Best regards,

    Rick Macali / 407 509-2400

    www.inhousedigitizing.com

    www.embdesignsnow.com <-- coming soon

  • Starting an online business

    Q:  I heard that online businesses were a fad and that in time physical storefronts will emerge on top again.
    A:  Ask your local travel agent what they think of it being a fad !!

    Online stores are more popular than ever before, as a matter of fact, I was working on a deal with a large franchise department store (hint: starts with a big red "K") and they told me that they are looking to not only expand their online business, but to do MORE business online than they do in their box stores.  That really says something, especially when you look at who owns them.

    There are many similarities in opening a storefront and an online store.  There's the initial investment, product, marketing, advertising, website design, computers, etc. One of the differences between the two is that you can open your doors to the world with an online store much quicker than you can a storefront.  And, I do mean to the WORLD.  Our online digitizing business has serviced almost all the 50 states, 2 US territories, 2 countries within the UK and patch factories in China, of all places.  I would never be able to do that from our storefront in Celebration, FL. 

    Online businesses do, however, seem to run a bit more lean than a storefront can afford to.  For example, I used to have 5 t-shirt kiosks in a major tourist mall in Orlando, and on the weekends when our stock was busting out of the kiosks, we had banner sales days.  Then Monday would come, we would do inventory, order shirts, embroider or screen print them and fill the shelves again on Wednesday .. do I have to tell you what our Monday and Tuesday sales were?  You guessed it, down in the dumps.  There's a perception at work in selling to the public .. they see a cart in the middle of a mall hallway filled with product that is beautifully merchandised, and they are drawn to it, but, when the cupboards were bare, so were the sales.  Online stores have the benefit of LOOKING stuffed, when in fact, they may drop ship their product from a distributors warehouse upon each online sale.  No one has to know how large or small your company is.  No one has to know your physical hours, either.  Many designs from my west coast customers come in when I'm eating dinner here on the east coast; we get to work the next day, tackle the designs while they are still sleeping or just waking up .. it's a beautiful process.  No customers know if it was me, or Sal, or Mike, or Paul that digitized their logo, they just know that the process was seamless and they got what they paid for. 

    However, you still have to be careful for certain things when running an online business.  There used to be a commercial that ran when I was watching my pathetic Cleveland Indians that showed 4-5 colleagues all geeked-up about their new online business venture, they huddled around the computer just as their site was about to go live, and BAM, a sale .. how excited they were.  Then another, and another, and another .. and, then 1000 and then 1000 more .. so many sales that they failed because they didn't plan for that type of online success .. WELL, I'm hear to tell you that it doesn't happen exactly like that.  Just because you open an online store, or blog, or personal page it doesn't mean you're going to be the next "Subway Jared."  Advertising is expensive and time consuming.  If no one knows you exist in cyberspace, do they hear the tree fall?  When you walked into the mall, there were 5 t-shirt stores that competed with each other, in cyberspace, there are millions all over the country and world .. YOU can't grow a business if no one can find you.  You have to differentiate your store from the rest of the pack, and that takes some specialized know-how.  Search Engine Optimization (SEO) is a great tool for making your site appear first on the search engines (Google, Yahoo, MSN Live, etc.).  In order to grow and survive, you need to appear on the first page of the search engine sites if your means of advertising is only online efforts.  We believe our digitizing business has an advertising edge  because I travel to 8 trade shows each year where I meet hundreds of people at each show, speak at 10 events each year, write blogs like this for Ann the Gran, and we are active on embroidery lists where we cultivate business by helping others and showing our knowledge and expertise.  So, you may not see us on the first pages of the search engines, but, we take a different advertising route.

    I probably wouldn't have brought this up here, but, the grief I just went through, I wouldn't wish upon my worst enemy (if I had any!).  Choose a quality hosting company.  Visit them.  See where they store their servers.  Believe me, these server companies are more secure than Fort Knox.  These buildings are lightening proof, earthquake proof, fire proof, flood proof, bug proof .. A techie might say, "my site is on rackspace that is main-piped to the net."  What that means is that their website files are on a secure server that is directly linked to the internet.  Imagine the internet as a large pipe that stretches from Washington D.C. to San Francisco, and smaller pipes tap into it that feed to each state, and then smaller pipes tap into the state pipes that feed major cities and their surrounding areas.  Luckily, all the "pipes" are so large, that, today, there is little if any wait time when you send an email, instant message, or upload an order to your favorite digitizing site.

    Due to our customer size now, I just had to purchase our own server that I keep at a facility in Orlando where I rent rack space.  They keep the server for me connected to the internet with a guaranteed 99.999% "up" rate (they almost guarantee their connection will never be down).  They love my server as if it were their own.  They feed it, water it, keep it clean and out of harm's way .. all for the price of a small fortune, but, it is worth it.  Your site, is your life and your server and hosting company are your life lines.  If they fail, you are OUT OF BUSINESS.  We started to migrate our site from our old server to the new one on Friday night before Easter, it wasn't done until Tuesday morning .. I was OUT OF BUSINESS that whole time. 

    Lessons to take away from this article:
    1. Don't skimp on your hosting company, server, web site designer or all-in-one site package.
    2. Seperate yourself from the crowd by having a killer website that is easy to use.
    3. Get found on the internet by SEO or other advertising means.
    4. Lastly, come up with a short domain name that states what you do, take it from Mr. www.inhousedigitizing.com that long names are a pain to get customers to the first time.

    Good luck with your online business .. it was not just a smart move for us, but, a saving grace for our business as a whole.

    Best regards,

    Rick Macali / 407 509-2400

    www.inhousedigitizing.com

    www.embdesignsnow.com <-- coming soon to include stock designs, digitizing training and much more

  • Basic embroidery digitizing

    Q:  How does the embroidery machine know where to put all the stitches?
    A:  You just scan the image and the software analyzes the art and tells the machine where to place the stitches.

    Well, that's what our customers think.  I wish it were that easy.  Actually, I don't .. if it were that easy, I wouldn't have a job!!

    An embroidery artist (digitizer) analyzes a piece of art, and quickly, he/she can tell you how they think the design will run best, and with the fewest stops (trims or color changes).  The digitizer then uses embroidery software to define areas and segments into the three basic stitch types:  run, satin or fill.  The differences between digitizing abilities among digitizers are typically based on the knowledge of, and the use of the different densities and stitch lengths of these stitch types.

    • RUN STITCH:  Consists of one stitch between two points or needle penetrations.  Varies in length, but, should be no shorter than .8 mm or longer than 12 mm.  Run stitches are used for detail in a design or travelling from one part of the design to the other; also for small lettering reminiscent of cross stitch lettering.  Most digitizing softwares have patterned run stitches for beautiful detail work.
    • SATIN STITCH:  Formed by closely arranged zigzag stitches.  Usually the stitches are set perpendicular to the column they are creating, but, they dont have to.  The suggested width of a satin stitch can vary from as small as .8 mm wide to 8 mm wide.  Satin stitches are used to outline fill areas, area definition, but most commonly for the use in creating names.
    • FILL STITCH:  A series of running stitches closely placed together to cover large areas.  Different patterns can be created by changing the stitch angle, stitch length, and the repeat sequence of the stitches.  Most digitizing softwares offer many different patterns built in to the program.

    The knowledge of the above stitch types is only the tip of the iceberg when it comes to creating an embroidery design from art.  The end design should not only look good, but, also embroider well.  No one wants to babysit an embroidery design that breaks thread every 1,000 stitches .. embroidery is then not fun, but, aggravating work. 

    It has been said that if you put 6 qualified digitizers in a room, gave them the same piece of art, and asked them to create the design for the same garment at the same size, you would get 6 different approaches to the same design.  Assuming all 6 digitizers were competent, you should get 6 nice looking designs, all with different characteristics.  There are digitizers that are more artistic than others.  Most of the time, I appreciate the more artistic look versus a flat looking embroidery. 

    If I were to create steps of HOW I approach each design, they would look something like this:

    1. Study the design and its components:  find what segments/colors are hidden by things on top of them and work form the background forward.  Embroidery is much like a landscape painting, it is not often you would expect the painter to paint the trees in the foreground THEN try to add the lake in the background.
    2. Take into consideration the fabric/garment:  hats generally need to be digitized in a different order/direction than do shirts.  Different materials may also pose different complexities as to how to digitize the design.  Stretchy fabrics may dictate that you work in, and complete small areas to complete the design.  This will cause more color changes/trims, but your design will look better because of it.
    3. Start digitizing by dropping the needle:  I like to drop the needle right from center and run to where I'm going to start my digitizing; most of the time, I will outline the area of the whole design to a. capture the work area and reduce the push and pull of the fabric and b. attach my backing to the garment immediately for better stabilization.  And, depending upon the fabric/garment I may lay down a cross-hatch underlay for the whole design to eliminate the need for it per color.  This will be discussed in another post.
    4. Insert the color:  after the prep work is done, the digitizing process is fairly simple when you understand the stitch types, their uses and limitations.  Complete each color, working from the background foreward, until all the color is laid in. 
    5. Add the detail, and the outlining:  Once your color is laid in, it will look like a colorful mess.  Your outlines and detail will bring all your hard work into focus.  The detail is usually black, or dark in color, and creates the coloring book effect that really creates the embroidery design.

    For more artistic work, for example flowers, water color scenes, you may not have detail on 100% of your design, it may just be on certain elements.

    I hope this primer on basic digitizing has enlightened some of you to a. the elements involved and b. the process by which typically each digitizer goes through.

    Until next time .. best wishes, Cool

    Rick Macali
    www.inhousedigitizing.com

    RMacali@inhousedigitizing.com

     

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