The Avid Embroiderer : avid embroiderer

Ooops, it slipped

pat71896 — Fri, 28 Sep 2012 03:01:00 GMT

Sooner or later (probably sooner) everyone has it happen - the ooops, the hoop was not exactly tight enough and your partially completed - and very expensive/special/treasured - project slips out of the hoop. I can honestly say that this has happened to me and the more expensive/technical/delicate my project is the more likely it is to have a hoop problem. I think it happens because I am so focused on the expense/technique/delicate issues and the hoop is just not getting the attention I normally would.

It does not matter what type of a machine you have, it can happen to any of us. So, here is my tip to fix it and save your project!

Here is my design sewing on the machine.

Here is the loose hoop.

And after just a little movement of the machine, it is gone from its position.

You know, if you have been reading my blogs, that I am a big fan of Badgemaster. This hoop loss needs something that will hold stitches, can be seen through and will go away when you are done. That is not a small request because there are few stabilizers that can do everything that is needed. Here is my first blog on Badgemaster. That blog includes my comments after the 3 years it took to use Badgemaster up.

Here is my second roll. You will notice that I have a desiccant (used to absorb water or humidity) that I got in another item. I put it with my roll to help keep it dry. It will be used up in 3 years but I don't want it to get damp or wet in the mean time.

Next, I will hoop just the Badgemaster. It is strong and will take multiple stitches in the same place and NEVER fail.

Now I will start the design over again on the Badgemaster. I did not go as far as the original sew out but I should have done just that.

The easiest step of all is to match up the problem project with my Badgemaster sewing.

Once they are matched perfectly, I will pin or baste by hand the project to my stabilizer.

Back to the machine for a perfect finish and my project is saved.

There was a little bit of red tails left on one of the pieces, I should have trimmed them because they got caught in my final design.

Here is some more good news. I use my fingernail or anything that is rounded on the edge and lift off the Badgemaster. You will notice that the tear away is quite firm but not impossible. That is a sure test of the strength of the stabilizer.

It tears very cleanly. I know that some of my 'tear away' stabilizers have left fuzzy edges and/or lint behind or been too easy to tear away thus destabilizing the stabilizer at work. Not a good situation!

Here is my finished project. You cannot tell I had any sort of problem with it! Hope you are using Badgemaster, you will always appreciate its high quality.

You can use this trick for placement in the same manner. Just start with the Badgemaster design and leaving it in the hoop, baste or pin your project to your Badgemaster. Quick, easy and fool proof.

Just for a short time, All About Blanks (and our favorite Mommie) is on sale, so this is a great time to get started on your holiday gifts. Everyone needs towels! (Did you know that no one ever throws away a towel?) People keep and use towels until they are thread bare, so now is a great time to give a new one to someone special!

Hoop Impression or Burn

pat71896 — Fri, 18 Feb 2011 21:52:00 GMT

Occasionally you may be working with a dense or very sheer fabric and experience what is called hoop burn. Sometimes it is just an impression left on the fabric, but some of them can be a real burn.

As previously noted, you can get the fantastic (IMHO) Snap-Hoop which you can read about in my blog about it. You cannot get hoop burn from these hoops, but until yours arrives, these are some ideas for you to use if you get hoop burn. Snap-Hoop is currently available for Bernina, Brother, Baby Lock and Viking. More hoops are being developed for other machines so watch for them.

This visual appearance happens when the grip of a hoop imprints or presses a fabric's fibers down leaving an impression after the hoop is removed.

Fabrics with a nap as minimal as that of a t-shirt are subject to burns. Terrycloth, velvet and leather are easily marred and must be cared for in a special manner.

First and foremost, remember to ‘float' your fabric above the hoop. As I demonstrated in my earlier blog, use an adhesive stabilizer, and my personal favorite is Ann's because of the value and the quality. You may like a different brand, but the important thing is that you purchase the best you can afford. It is like trying to use a wrench as a hammer. The 2^nd best tool for the job may work, but for the best results, use the correct tool.

OK, let's say that you got the burn, what now? A small amount of water/moisture will usually fix the problem. I recommend using a Q-Tip or similar item that is not overly wet. Start out with less water, you can always add more. Rub the fabric against the lay of the nap and at the same time, roll your fabric between your fingers to encourage the nap back into position. Most napped fabric has been heat sealed in some way to keep the nap lofty, so rolling the fabric may be a good choice to coax the nap into place.

You may be able to simply put the fabric through the wash. That is not always possible for a variety of reasons. However, if you do so, check the burn before placing in the dryer because the dryer can and will ‘reset' the fabric into the burned position. Err on the side of caution.

Another possible remedy would be to use your spray and/or steam iron. I would not press the fabric but I would keep the steam on the burn area about 1" above the fabric. I would do that for about 60 second followed by fluffing with the nap of a wash cloth and check my results. This may have to be done multiple times. A few minutes of effort may just get the fabric back to its original nap.

I know that I have read multiple suggestions on the Internet including (but not limited to):

Spray with a weak vinegar solution rather than plain water
Use a light coat of spray sizing
Spray a little spray starch
Magic Sizing fabric finish
Wrap the hoop with strips of adhesive cutaway

You may have an idea of your own, please add it to the comments area. We know that some things will work for one situation and not for another. This is a great time to share your idea!

NOTE: Due to technical difficulties, The Computerist blog did not have a link in last weeks blog links email. Since it has some important information (IMHO), you may want to check it out. It discusses Speeding Up Your Computer and Leather and Lace and Alphabet Xpress.

Baby Its Cold Outside

pat71896 — Fri, 04 Feb 2011 20:32:00 GMT

Frankly, when it is cold outside, it is also cold inside. I remember living in Phoenix and the air conditioner ran 23 hours and 45 minutes every day. No matter what you set the thermostat, the ambient air was still hot. That goes for cold too. I feel sorry for all of you on the east coast. I remember those cold days and don't regret living in southern California. I went from Akron, Ohio to Phoenix, Arizona to San Diego, California. Frankly, the first two were a little too extreme for me.

When I saw this knit scarf, I remembered a time when I was doing some temporary work locally. Since they were having me doing all that typing for just a few weeks, they sat me in a corner where the air conditioning was really, really cold. I wore 2 sweatshirts and a blazer and still had numb fingers within 30 minutes. I thought that this scarf would have been a terrific fashion statement and ward off a lot of cold air. I often find that, with my age in consideration, having a little something on my back and neck helps keep me warm.

It is really so simple that I made it in 2 hours and that included the embroidery, which was nearly 35 minutes. Deborah Jones, The Embroidery Mentor who also blogs for AnnTheGran has her method for hooping knits.

Deborah recommends that you use a cutaway stabilizer and IMHO, AnnTheGran has the best of the best stabilizers with a very low price when you are an Ann's Club member.

The pattern called for a piece of knit 31" by 41" and I had a scrap of fabric that was just a little over that size. I did, however, cut it down to size.

I took the fabric and determined the center of both sides and placed a rose motif on it. I thought it would be a nice touch because my fabric is white.

After embroidering, I folded the fabric in half lengthwise and sewed a seam.

Then I turned it right side out and making a 'fold back' or cuff. With the short ends aligned, I pinned and sewed that end, leaving a few inches to enable me to turn it all around.

Of course, it was time to sew up that small opening and I had a terrific scarf that looks like a Cowl Neck!

This is on the back of the neck where drafts can be really chilling.

This won't slip off either.

I was thinking about all the things that can be done with this pattern and a little imagination - -

A great look around your winter coat, especially if it could use a little TLC!
A wonderful place to put endless hooping designs.
This would be wonderful with a Monogram that would be 'sitting' on the shoulder.
You can increase or decrease the size easily.
How terrific would using something like organza with this one? Or even a fake fur fabric?
Won't this be a wonderful item for Mother's Day Giving?

I used a light weight fabric creating a draping effect. If you use a heavier fabric like a winter knit, it will have even more definition. I hope you like it, I sure do.

Scissors for the Modern Embroiderer

pat71896 — Sat, 08 Jan 2011 18:06:00 GMT

Your current scissors are probably not going to make it to a museum, I know mine won't. But a good pair of scissors is worth its weight in gold - even double if you inherited and take good care of them.

I was reading an interesting article on the history of scissors. The link is: thenonist.com/index.php/comments/3540 but for some reason won't work. You may want to try doing a copy and paste to your browser. The photos of the museum pieces are worth the time to check out. The information is engaging and the whole article gives one a new respect for our grandmothers' cutting equipment.

The origin of the information was from the book Scissors by Massimiliano Mandel which is unfortunately out of print. What a great coffee table book it would be!

Here are just a few of the photos, I hope you enjoy them as much as I did. I had a hard time cutting (pun intended) down the number of photos because they were all so fascinating.

Iron scissors. Eastern Mediterranean, 14th Century.

2nd century A.D. Trabzon, northeastern Turkey.

Household Scissors. Italy, about 1550.

Persian Tailoring Scissors. 17th Century.

Candle-Trimmers. Italy, 16th Century.

Medieval Scissors.

Shears / Detachable Blades. Italy, 1890.

Neoclassical era Italy or France, about 1820.

Decorated Steel Fretwork. England, 1875.

Shaped like a stork carrying a baby. England.

Embroidery Scissors. The Romantic Age, France.

For me, I want the best equipment for my embroidery. A project done with blunt scissors won't make the cut. (Sorry. . .) The selection here at AnnTheGran is excellent. Check them out BEFORE you need to add or replace scissors.

These are my selections. I have a use specific for each individual pair and I never use them for other things. I have some inexpensive scissors that I use for paper and miscellaneous cutting projects.

The first pair is for really delicate items such as tiny stitches. The second pair is for snipping easy stitches. The third pair is for catching and cutting difficult stitches. The last of the small group is my satin stitching scissors that run through a long line very quickly. It is a Gingher I got here at Ann's. The large group starts with my ‘stabilizer' only cutting shears. The words are hard to read but that is what it is for. The next is my appliqué, also purchased here, and make quick work of trimming. You can read my blog on Applique if you want further information on that technique. The third large scissors is a pair I got from Sears about 25 years ago. I oil and hone it here at home but take to a professional for sharpening when needed. The last large item is the Olaf Rotary Cutter that I use for diagonal cutting.

I do have other scissors around the house for general purposes but these are my babies.

If your scissors are looking like a 2nd Century cutting implement, check out the excellent sale Ann is having! You will get 25% off The Must Have Embroidery Scissor Set with the purchase of Any AnnTheGran Club Membership. I never take 25% off lightly and hope you find that these are going to be in your mailbox soon!

Training with Pizzazz!

pat71896 — Fri, 01 Oct 2010 21:45:00 GMT

My love for embroidery is going on 10 years. I cannot believe it, how time flies when you are having so much fun. I think about my newbie days and remember frustration, determination, annoyance, jubilation, irritation, and finally the wonder and beauty of results. There are many things that I would love to tell that person. You may remember my blog - What I wish I Knew - in which I discuss some of the good buys and bad purchases.

Well, I have a few to add to that list of ‘knowledge is power' idea:

The embroidery machine industry is changing really fast! As a relatively new craft (about 15-20 years old in the general crafting arena), it had some growing pains, improvements and ideas flow like water.
I do learn something in every project I do. (Just don't ask me about my most recent embroidery sale, which became the project that drove me nuts!)
Training is an absolute must! I cannot say that enough. Techniques, ideas and innovations are all around us and we need to keep learning and growing.

Those are just 3 more things that every newbie needs to know. So, on to the topic for this blog - The Stitchin Sisters.

I am fortunate to have two great monthly embroidery club meetings here in southern California, but this event was so much more.

You are probably aware of Eileen Rocha who is the founder (in 1998) and Editor and Publisher of Designs In Machine Embroidery or her sister, Marie Zinno, author of Machine Embroidery for Babies & Tots. Together, they give you 2 full (and I really mean Full) days of tips, tricks and projects that inspire and motivate everyone.

My event was in beautiful San Marcos, California. It was attended by more than 100 excited embroiderers. We were treated not only to the top of the line machines to work (more like ‘play') with, including some 10 needle, fresh from the carton beauties. Every project can be done on the terrific PE-770 for sale here at AnnTheGran.

By the first day at lunch, I stopped counting all the tips at about 30 because there was so much to learn and laugh about with old and new friends.

The techniques that we were experiencing were being rolled into great projects that were presented with quality fabrics and stabilizers. That is a true key to successful projects, using quality components.

We must have done a dozen projects and given all the supplies needed. We received a CD with all the designs and a copy of the latest Designs Magazine. Eileen and Marie are sharing this design with you:

In keeping with the California theme, this is the Starfish Stipple design from Stipple! Seashells.

The color sequence is:

Color 1. Blue (the water is the bean stitch).
Color 2: lay down orange starfish appliqué fabric over the opening in the Stipple block and stitch color 2, the appliqué tack down in dark orange.
Color 3. Brown, the starfish details.

Eileen and Marie may be coming to your area soon, so check it out, I promise you will have the time of your embroidery life!

Eileen has a blog too! I think she lives on 2 hours sleep daily - Read it here.

Mylar and Embroidery

pat71896 — Fri, 17 Sep 2010 21:45:00 GMT

Embroidery is always trying to do new and different things. My mother's embroidery was limited essentially to linens, some decorating and clothing. Now we embroider on screen doors, wood and just about anything that does not move or require food. I wonder when someone will figure out how to embroider on spider webs. . . .

Mylar is actually a trademark name which is a polyester made in extremely thin sheets of great tensile strength and used for recording tapes, insulating film, fabrics. Mylar can be purchased at art or craft stores. It mostly comes in rolls and will be terrific for holiday projects. Additionally, it reflects light, and if you have a houseplant that needs more light, you can (according to the ads I read) reflect extra light to it with the Mylar.

Mylar in embroidery is not new, but it does require some thought if it is to be successful. The first issue is that Mylar designs look a lot like an appliqué but do have one difference. That change is that the ‘field' stitching needs to be on the sparse side. A field can be small like a quarter inch by a quarter inch or large like a significant portion of a design. If the field stitching covers the Mylar, then the twinkle is gone.

The Download Designs area has so many excellent designs. I saw about 5 good candidates for the mylar technique just in the florals category. Do you remember my blog on The Bean Stitch? I saw some patterns in the floral that were probably bean stitched as well. It really pays to be an AnnTheGran embroiderer and member of her club as well.

Begin by doing the same thing as we would do for an applique; follow the directions and do the first 5 colors.

Next, we add the mylar. Mine has a crinkle to it but is muted in the colors. Next time, I am going for more color, but I love the irridescent too.

After stitching the initial outline, I am pleased that the Mylar did not shred or tear. And when I went to remove the excess from the design, it did tear away nicely. I like that! I did not have to carefully cut away the Mylar - less work for me.

The next stitching is the inside of the petals. It is delicate. I think the next time I will use a darker color for the same color, making an accent more visible.

The edging is a satin stitch applique.

At this point, I considered leaving the inside of the daisy unfinished. But I did want to see the whole, completed design. I was even happier with the finished project. So much detail in the center!

Give it a try yourself. In person, it really looks like you have used metallic thread. Since we know what a challenge that metallic threads can be, this is an excellent option. Just a few ideas where this would be really interesting:

bridal gifts
holiday designs - Halloween would be fun!
fsl designs
butterflies
outlines ***** 50% off right NOW! *****
cross stitching
Flame Designs ***** 50% off right NOW! *****
florals
redwork ***** 50% off right NOW! *****
Negative space
heirloom designs ***** 50% off right NOW! *****
vintage lace
frames
organza fabric
brighten a patch
bib - can't you just see a baby with their bling bib?

I could just go on and on.

Threads of Embroidery

pat71896 — Fri, 20 Aug 2010 21:30:00 GMT

I have used thinner threads for certain types of embroidery. For instance, some monograms can be more elegant with a lighter thread.

When we buy embroidery thread, we usually get the 40 weight. Thread is sold by the weight. Here is a simplified explanation of that criteria:

The size is based on the length of the thread required to have a weight of 1 kilogram. Therefore, if it takes 40 kilometers to weigh 1 kilogram, a lighter-weight thread will take 50 kilometers to weigh 1 kilo.

I really find that interesting, because the European numbers are somewhat different from the American numbers. As I understand it, European numbers take into consideration the ply information. Just the same, if you keep in mind that you are looking at length, it makes sense.

For further understanding and some good visual information, you will want to look at my blog from nearly 2 years ago. See it here. The blog is about needles, but thread is discussed as well.

You may recognize that your bobbin thread is normally around 60 weight (light). And, after doing some research and practical experience, I agree with purchasing prewound bobbins rather than doing them yourself. There are a few reasons:

You are not saving any money doing it yourself. You still need to buy thread, and use batteries or electricity. Don't forget how valuable your time is as well!
Prewound bobbins are very tightly wound. You cannot wind them as efficiently and evenly at home.
Prewound bobbins are usually a lot longer in length, therefore, you will not have to change the bobbin as often - - a frustration saver there!

The exception is when you are doing free standing lace (fsl). FSL does usually require creating your own bobbins. However, just a little tip, if your color is very light or very dark, you may find that using white or black prewound bobbins will be nearly invisible.

I have several of the bobbin spool holders and you can get them right here at AnnTheGran. This bobbin system is a welcome, easy and visible method to store your growing stash of bobbins neatly.

Next, I want to discuss ‘fill.' We use 40 weight thread because it is recognized by digitizers as being the most available to most people worldwide. If you are having someone digitize a design for you, thread weight should be one of the questions they will ask you. We use 60 weight in bobbin because we don't want a lot of thread on the backside of our designs. (Again, check my needle blog for the visual. At the end of the blog, there is a link to ‘test' your tension - which should be done regularly.)

So, if you really want to have a more 3D effect, find some lower numbered thread. It will make your embroidery stand out from the fabric more.

I went in the opposite direction on this project. I decided to try a design for a dog in which the digitizer uses stitching they call "photo stitch" designs. It is one method digitizers use to make a design a little more life like.

It was a Sunday afternoon when I decided to try this test. I fretted over the fact that I would need to get some lightweight thread and that would happen on Monday. Well, duh, I can use my bobbin thread! And, better than that, I had purchased (when I was a Newbie) a spool of bobbin thread. That bobbin thread was 70 weight. So, if you decide to try this one, you have everything you need, no shopping needed - - Yea!! (Well, darn, I love to shop).

The photo does not show the true difference between the completed projects. The one on the left was a 40 weight, and the right was 70. I did it on as contrasting a scrap as I could find. I hope you get the idea.

These photos may be of a little more help.

Think how interesting and delicate using a lighter weight thread would be on white/red/black work! Dainty would be the word for something to place in a 'Hope Chest' for a sweet little girl.

I am also going to be doing an item from my Bridal site, and it calls for Quilters Cotton and specifically says not to use embroidery thread, for various reasons. I learned a lot from this project. I hope you did too. My ramblings are about what I am doing, only. I wish I were an expert, but alas, I am always learning from my projects.

Did you learn something on a previous project that you would like to share? I know you have, let us all learn from you too! You could create a 'guest blog' where you just write as if we were sitting down over coffee. Add a couple of photos, and you have something worthy of sharing. Please consider it!

Pat

The Giving Tree

pat71896 — Fri, 06 Aug 2010 21:45:00 GMT

One of my favorite authors was Shel Silverstein; he was truly one of a kind. In addition to many books, poetry and artist, he wrote the music and lyrics for "A Boy Named Sue." You can read more about him here.

As a teenager, my daughter was really touched when she read The Giving Tree. It is one of his most famous books, and was a modest success when it first arrived on the scene. Since that time, it has sold more than 5.5 million copies in 30 languages as a best seller that is likely to be on the shelf in your local book store right now.

When I saw an embroidery design called "The Tranquility Tree", I felt like it was something I wanted to use in a creative project with The Giving Tree in mind. This is what I came up with.

I had wanted to use an unusual fabric/material/textile in its design. I did not have to look any further than my laundry room. I selected the dryer fabric softener that I use. There were a couple of things that I did not realize about that cloth. First was that a ‘used' cloth was not necessarily a ‘completely' used cloth. There were still chemicals left in that cloth. The second thing was that when I used water paint on the cloth that I used in several dryer loads, it still would not take the paint evenly.

So, I spattered on some paint because the paint was an afterthought anyway. The main concept was the tree and the dryer cloth.

The next consideration was a strong color for the background. I checked out several colors, including brown, red and green. I selected the green for my background.

I sewed out the design and wanted to use a ‘frame' along with the tree. With 34 different and unusual designs, those frames supersede those on my machine. In the end, I used an oval - - so much for innovation.

I wanted to showcase the interesting design so I made the frame a little smaller than the design. You can just see the sun and two roots peeking out from the embroidered frame.

After trimming to the frame, I was pleased with the outcome. The only thing I would change is to have used more vibrant colors for the sun, water (horizontal lines) and roots.

What do you think??

I like the smoky affect the dryer cloth gives. Using net, organza, voile or other delicate fabric may be even more beautiful.

Updates Aplenty

pat71896 — Fri, 23 Jul 2010 21:45:00 GMT

Maybe it is my age, or maybe it is just because things change, but so often, I think of things I could have added to previous blogs.

As you are aware, my blogs are all my personal experiences that I share with you. I appreciate it when someone comments and adds their suggestion, knowledge or idea to my blog. It gives us all an opportunity to try new things and share expertise at all levels. I recall the story of Edison, the inventor of the electric light bulb who gave the issue his own viewpoint, and what had been an unsolvable issue a product. I am sure that after that event, others came along with new and innovative changes and enhancements. Evolution is not limited to humans.

So, let's get started.

My very last blog was about a way to hoop things that you want to be centered or placed at a certain spot. I noted that I used two sheets of tear away stabilizer. I did not mention that I generally do NOT hoop both of them. I may use a piece of scrap, assuming that it is large enough, and position some glue in corners or edge so that the glue does not interfere with the embroidery. There are two reasons for this: One is the glue gets on the needle making it sticky and two is that saving money is important to me and those scraps of stabilizer are valuable.
When I float a scrap piece, I usually put it inside the hoop. However, if I start to embroider and find that I need more stabilizer, I can place it under the hoop.

I have used this "secret" for about 4 years without a single problem. I have read and heard not to do it, but I have had success, so here is a tip you can take or kick to the curb as you please:
I use canned Silicon spray that you will find in the automotive department, and perhaps in your own garage, to lubricate my thread. Gasp! It works for me but let me give you a few cautions:
- Spray away from everything including your machine. I spray on a newspaper section and spray very lightly.
- I spray the entire thread area. I spray the front and back, and you will see that it is slightly ‘wet.' It is not really wet in a water sense, it is silicon. Let it dry completely, it only takes a minute or two.
- While I spray my thread, I spray my thumb and forefinger and rub the needle.
- Never spray on a floor, painted area or item that may become too slick to handle, like a glass or the like. You will, in this order, fall, be unable to repaint or hold on to an item.
- Make sure you understand that this should not be inhaled or otherwise taken into the body.
I just read a tip that I want to share with you - the tip said that you could fold up some water soluble stabilizer if you had to embroider over a seam like you would find in a jean pant leg. You would use it as a 'step down' from the thick seam, down to the folded stabilizer and then down to the fabric. Well, it did not work for me. . . Perhaps I did not do it exactly right, but it was as difficult to sew as the seam. Instead, I used a rubber mallet to pound the seam down - gently for sure, but just enough to help the embroidery work in a tough area.

Attention all Newbies!! (We love you!!!!!) If you started embroidering within the last 2 years, please, please check the Tension on your machine. You can do that by using the ‘test' in my Needle Blog. You need to repeat this test a few times per year, or if you are experiencing "nesting" (loops under the fabric) or uneven top stitching. If your adjustments don't help, it is time to get thee to the technician.

Rayon or Polyester? Well, this is a fun question. There was some discussion in my "What I Wish I Knew" blog - near the beginning of my blogs! In that same blog, there was a great discussion about obsolescence in all things, not limited to embroidery! Things are changing all the time and embroidery is having a boon because, for the home user, it is a relatively new craft. I estimate (I have no specific dates) that the home embroidery market came on site coinciding with the Internet. That puts it around 20+ years.
So, back to the question, what is better Rayon or Polyester? The answer is - - it depends. For instance, Rayon was once the only thread, exception is silk, with sheen. Polyester has caught up, more or less, but you need to inspect the thread itself. Some polyester is dull; however, it has ‘wear ability' that Rayon is a bit short of. Polyester will withstand jeans, sun and bleaching, not so much with Rayon. Rayon has its fine points, for instance, it is wonderful for heirloom/keepsake types of projects. The coloration, IMHO, is more beautiful. Keep both on hand, I have not found a problem with using them in the same project. If anyone has a different experience, I would like to hear from you - please do comment at the end of the blog.

This is something that I have done for a long time, and I find that when I am having difficulty, I simply slow the machine down.
I know that we all Ooo'd and Aaa'd over the speed of a new machine, but when the chips are down, sometimes a few minutes extra time with stitching is just the ticket. My machine does 800 stitches per minute, but slowing down to 600 or even 350 stitches adds very few minutes and if it prevents a rethreading, the trade off is nonexistent.

I just got my very first (used) Serger, and frankly, you who already have one have been keeping this secret too long! I have had so much fun just learning to use it that I am not sleeping as much as normal - - yawn! I do have a tip for you, when you bring your new baby home, take a lot of photos of where the settings and threads are. If you have one, you know what I mean. If you are considering one, ask for a demonstration and take your digital camera - borrow one if necessary. Make sure its battery is charged and make a video of the demo. Try to be where there is little or no background noise and ask a lot of questions, silly or not.
Threading is challenging but well worth it.

Til next time, thanks for reading, your input is really appreciated!

The Living is Easy

pat71896 — Fri, 25 Jun 2010 21:15:00 GMT

It is summertime here in southern California. That actually means that the days are balmy to hot and the nights are balmy to cold. My friend rents his beach side condo and he laughs about the people from Arizona. They come here to cool off, and then in the evenings, they need a blazing fire in the fireplace!

Actually, anywhere you go in southern California, the sales of sweatshirts are always brisk just about sunset.

With Independence Day just around the corner, I wanted to make a set of coasters. I have some holiday designs, and Annthegran created a frame that is available to my readers!

I will be using some different fabrics to see how I can make my own coasters.

I am using some felt, chambray and batting pieces along with clear, light weight vinyl. I also need my applique scissors, my mother and her mother used Gingher, and I do too.

I hooped my medium weight tearaway, a piece of batting and topped it off with a piece of red felt. (If you did not see the calculations on stabilizer pricing, check my other blog "The Computerist" out.)

My sewn design was just delightful; it is a bit of summer in red, white and blue.

Sew the first line in the coaster design. Do not remove the project from the hoop. Cut the edge with the scissors, as closely as possible. Don't cut the stitching.

Add the back fabric, I chose more felt for my first coaster, and add the clear vinyl. That vinyl is available at any fabric store. I floated a piece of tearaway stabilizer because the vinyl was 'sticking' to the machine. I did add a small amount of spray adhesive, but just in the corners. I find that works best for spray adhesives.

Sew the second line and trim the back of the hoop fabric, again closely without cutting the stitching.

Use matching top and bobbin thread and sew the final coaster satin stitching.

Tear away the stabilizer, trim if necessary.

I did a second design, this time I used white fabric on top and a chambray fabric on the back. I still used the vinyl on the back.

What do you think of the results? I think I am going to do the white and chambray as a whole set for the holiday.

Here is the back photo.

This would be great with a monogram inside the coaster as well!!!

Thank you for reading my blog. You all inspire me with your comments!

It started with a button

pat71896 — Fri, 11 Jun 2010 21:45:00 GMT

I suppose we all have had this happen from time to time (or more often!) that we are minding our own business, and out of the blue comes something that inspires you in a manner that you cannot ignore.

Mine started with a button. I was walking through a local department store and from 30 feet away, a set of buttons, hanging innocently from a rack, caught my eye. My feet winged me to the button, and I don't exactly know how, the button just talked to me. . . I knew I had to create a project around that button set (there were 3 and were coordinated, not alike). Jeez, it is so wonderful when your brain is ticking and tocking away with thoughts of wonderful items that would be the talk of the next picnic, party or any event.

Well, I had not done anything for my 18 month old granddaughter in about 3 days, so she is going to get my latest and greatest find.

I decided to put it on a simple summer shirt, I love the adorable Garanimal collection. Since my daughter lives in Phoenix, something light is needed to work for my granddaughter. I selected one in Sunshine Yellow! I really mean SUNSHINE!

Next, I wanted to have a simple embroidery design to compliment the buttons and be fun at the same time. Well, since I felt it was a great blog item, I contacted Diane Brown (aka The Keep It Simple Diva) to get a sweet baby design that I would be able to share with you. As usual, Diane (the woman of many talents) had something that was perfect! You get the footie design here courtesy of AnnTheGran!!!

After embroidery and button placement, I got started with DalCrystals. These crystals are every bit as good as Swarovski Crystals but at a significantly better price. I enjoy using them on everything that I embroider and other things as well. Just like embroidery, anything that will stand still is fair game for DalCrystals. LOL

I added green painted toe nails and a few on the neckline. I think it is sometimes difficult for me to decide when to stop, I just could have put crystals all over that shirt. . . .

I really wish my camera would show the great sparkle. It does not show my embroidery very well either.

Well, then I thought, I had planned to do an embroidered birth plaque for each of their walls. So, I started on that too. . . .

After 51 thread colors, with 61 thread changes (total for the two - ), I had two wonderful items for the kids' rooms.

You can see in the designer's photo that there is much detail, therefore 35 color changes. For any newbie out there who is thinking of adjusting those colors for fewer thread changes, let me say this: the digitizer is laying stitches precisely where they need to be for this specific placement. If you "shortcut" and make one color completely run through at a time, you may lose some of the detail.

Again, my camera needs adjustment because, despite some color changes (hair and dress), my sew out is as lovely as the design photo above. Here is the collection for Morango, but you can buy them separately as welll.

My project is almost complete, I just need frames for my birth plaques.

When I go to the store, I hope I don't find another "idea," because I need to dust and vacuum the house. . And this all started with a button.

Best wishes to you and yours, Pat

The Best Scarf You Cannot Buy

pat71896 — Fri, 14 May 2010 21:30:00 GMT

I have always been a fan of scarves. They are feminine, fluid and so graceful. They brighten up a dull outfit, ward off the cold and can signify that you are a member of a group. What else in the universe is so - - universal?

I personally have a very short neck and a large scarf is an overpowering element for me. As time marched on, I have some features on my neck that were not there just a short time ago. I am interested in concealing those lines (OK, I said it - lines, wrinkles, turkey neck).

If you were at the Community Circle in 2009, you met Rita Faro - - Well, you did not exactly meet her, you more got exposed to the whirlwind that is known as Rita Faro! She does have a blog. Stop by and tell her I sent you!

She has this scarf in her book "Life is Not A Dress Size." which is only available in the secondary market.

Here is the scarf. I took it from Rita's book, and we discussed its ‘ownership' and could not determine who it belongs to, so you are getting the instructions free.

The basic measurements are 21" by 13" by 4" by a curve. This requires a 5/8 of a yard of 45" material, so you may have a scrap piece that is just right for this project. As noted in the pattern area, that curve can be done as you please. There is no wrong way to do it. I was thinking that I could do it as a straight line if I wanted it that way.

If you are taller, you might want to increase the 21" length. If you want the shoulders wider, increase the 13" side.

You could use just one piece. In that case, you would have to use a fabric without a ‘right and wrong' side. You would finish it with a rolled hem on the edge.

I have a beautiful pattern on a (too bulky) scarf and I am going to use it to make a converted scarf for myself.

For this demo, I choose the 2 piece design, and added embroidery near the bottom of the curve on all the tail ends. The fabric I used is cotton, but I could have used any light weight material. It would even be interesting for a 'fur' type of material around the holidays. Hmm. . .

The rose is absolutely fantastic. It has 3 greens and 4 reds making the shading and detail very well presented. It is being given to all my readership!!! Rosebud You can use this design as an accent to so many things! Thank You Ann!

The rose would be elegant on anyone of the AllAboutBlanks items. Check that blog for information and ideas:

The high quality of Susan Mars' products will be a big hit with a graduate, a bride or someone who wants to feel special!

Spatter Painting for Mommy

pat71896 — Fri, 30 Apr 2010 21:45:00 GMT

Mother's Day will be upon us soon. Since my mother has already completed her earthly journey, I thought it was time to look at the new mothers in my world. These are going to be great for a new mother to decorate a nursery.

When I went to school, (before computers - but not before paper LOL) we hand-made a lot of crafts for our moms and dads.

One of my favorite methods which I believe is still in use today, is the spatter painting technique. That is where you put paint on a stiff brush and then drag a dull knife across the bristles to create a light, medium or large dot on your paper.

The tools I am using are still simple. The only piece that is a little more advanced is my ‘mop' brush.

This brush is a size 0, costs between $20 and $50, some synthetics can be found for even less. I found it once in a marked down bin and thought it was cool. When I purchased it I had no idea what it was for. . .

A mop brush is round, made of soft, absorbent natural squirrel hair. It is used mainly for watercolor or writing/printing. When used in watercolor, it would be used not only to lay down the paint, but if there were too much water in one spot, it would be dried gently and placed on the liquid to absorb excess paint or water. It is known for its absorbent character while allowing for a very sharp point. When you are done using any expensive brush, be sure to clean using the proper solvent. With a limp brush such as this one, it is advisable to dip in milk and gently reshape its soft hair.

I used it for making swirls and larger dots because it is very limp.

I began by using my highly technical tools - a tooth brush and a paint scraper. My paint bucket is a votive candle holder.

I used acrylic paints and watered them down for my purpose. I just wanted a light spray, and the thicker paint would result in a denser spatter.

I forgot to cut the lid link on the paint pot and made a mess trying to use the blue, it was all over the place. Cut the top link with scissors but leave the bottom together for ease of use and storage. Duh!

I was having so much fun. That is a problem when I ‘paint' (I use the term very loosely) because once I start, I want to keep on going, and going, and going.

But I stopped and I do like the result. It is like a party without the noise.

I had three designs for a baby and embroidered them in a jiffy. The ones I used were from the Download Designs section where I Searched on "Baby's Nursery." These three were by a single designer that I liked. They have a really great stitch pattern on the large sections.

Here is the resulting gift. I can hardly wait to see the look on the new mother's face when she sees a touch of whimsy for her new nursery.

Well, I like my projects anyway. I will make more of these and sell them.

Speaking of selling, don't forget that I sell my Spreadsheet, How much to charge for your embroidery projects. You will really like that helpful, easy method of making that choice. Don't work for free and don't be overcharging your clients.

Ribbons Galore!

pat71896 — Fri, 09 Apr 2010 21:30:00 GMT

Ribbons have been a part of embellishments, decorating and crafting ever since man first figured out how to tie a knot. That was about 45 minutes after man discovered fire - I think he wanted his amore to be pretty in the glow of the flames.

Ribbons are the easy to use. Like a paper clip, there are minimal instructions needed to use them after you know how to make that knot.

There are so many interesting things that you can do with a bow. I did find a fun site, Gift Basket Business which is hosted by Shirley George Frazier. If you want to know how to make a great, standard ribbon bow, you can find it at this easy to understand and replicate bow video.

Embroidered ribbons are a little different, but can be adapted to create some great variations. Here are just a few that I figured out. I know you will think of many others. Please feel free to share that information with us!

As you may already know, I only use Badgemaster stabilizer for my Free Standing Lace (FSL). I also use the brayer after I have rinsed my FSL because it creates a very flat embroidery surface. If you iron embroidery to get that smooth surface, you will lose some of the three dimensional effect of embroidery. As you can see, Badgemaster comes in the professional size as well as professional quality.

OK, I am creating a ribbon that will be used for Autism Awareness Month, the current month, April. It is a design from Emblibrary and specifically created with the puzzle pieces, indicating the puzzle of Autism.

When I decide to create a project for my blogs, I do tests to avoid making mistakes. Since I had done over 100 of these ribbons, using just the stabilizer, I figured I did not need to do testing. Guess What? I learned a lot from doing this blog as you will see.

My first ribbon is using just the FSL method. As usual, it is laid out to make the most of my stabilizer. If I were only going to do a single ribbon, I would still place it as far to the left (or right) as possible. I might add some other FSL designs that I like to have so that I use up the stabilizer. I give those 'samples' to people to show my work. If I don't use another FSL design, my stabilizer will have a lot of scrap left over. I use that either in a smaller hoop or with a small amount of water, patch it to a piece that is too narrow to make a good as new piece of stabilizer. That is just one of the great qualities of Badgemaster.

The second ribbon includes a piece of ribbon that is 3/8" wide and attached to the hoop with double sided tape at the top and bottom. As I did that ribbon, the movement of the machine did cause some shift of the ribbon. However, I don't think anyone can find that shift. I worked it back during the first pass, and it is just fine. Additionally, it will be in a loop, so it won't be noticeable. And, better still, after making a starting cut to the edge of the ribbon, I simply tore away the ribbons. If there was a little piece of the stabilizer left, I just trimmed it. Badgemaster can really take the rugged handling.

The next ribbon is some trim leftover from Christmas. It is 70% cotton, 30% metallic and at nearly ¼" in diameter, has a three dimensional feature. I will leave more of it on either end of the embroidered ribbon so that I can tie the ends. That will make this ribbon extra special.

I did hold it for the first pass. That is only a little under two minutes, so it is not too bad. This was my first try with something so thick. It is not perfect, but I think I will be able to make it better with each try.

The next ribbon will be nearer the same size as the embroidery. All that is needed there is correct placement and it is ready to go. I will have a red ribbon in that case. Despite careful measurement, it is off a little, but I like the edge it has given to me. As usual, a small error ends up being an interesting edge! I never assume that an issue with the project is fatal. Unless the work is torn or knotted up, there is something that can be salvaged from it. If it is ruined, it won't be my first nor my last bad project. I just move along to the next, exciting project.

Lastly, I am using a grosgrain ribbon that is larger than the pattern. I recall that the Forum had a question about how to keep the ribbon from ‘curling.' After trying to use the grosgrain several times (before), I came to the conclusion that there is likely no answer to that curl. This time, however, I placed 3 pieces of regular tape across the ribbon at close intervals! I removed the tape just as the stitching was nearing it. It is straighter than the others, and seems to be less curly. A little curl to a ribbon is, again, not a concern; it is a detail that makes the ribbon more interesting.

Using the adhesive tape was the best way in the final analysis!

Here they all are, all done:

All that concern about the ribbons being centered was for nothing, they look terrific.

Here they are in various positions. I left the stabilizer in the ribbons because it does not show and adds to the strength of the ribbon.

BONUS INFORMATION: The ribbons I used were 'heat sealed' and will not fray. I cannot say that about all ribbons, but these did great. I used a flame and placed the (test pieces) just as close to the flame as I could without them coming into contact with the flame. With a little practice, they heat sealed themselves. The metallic cord would not heat seal.

Remember, a style is just that - one style. When you play with project, your outcome may vary, and frankly, I hope you share that interesting ribbon with us!

If you want to make them endless and/or free standing lace, you can check out my version of continuous embroidery and Free Standing Lace at my blog on those subjects.

I have attached the meanings of the colors of ribbons for your information. From Anti-Terrorist to Violence, you can make your ribbons support your favorite cause. (Look under tags)

An Easter Heirloom

pat71896 — Fri, 26 Mar 2010 19:00:00 GMT

There are a few times of the year when we have a greater feeling of love, warmth and joy and Easter, for me, is one of those.

I remember Easter in Ohio and think of the many times the weather did not exactly say "Spring Is Here" or even "Winter Is Nearly Over." But I mostly reminisce about the family gathering and having dinner. That tradition carried over to my family. After church, I loved having the kids find those eggs. We lived in Phoenix and the sunny mornings were wonderful for finding eggs (and if possible, before the dog could get them).

My son moved to Chicago and married a lovely woman who lived a somewhat different childhood. When they went to hide eggs for their own children, something interesting happened. Mike, my son, headed outdoors, but Margaret, his wife, was going to hide them in the house. You see, she grew up in a high rise in Chicago, so they saw 'hiding' differently. We all laughed at that one! BTW, she lived in the same high rise as was shown on the original "Bob Newhart" show. So, you know exactly where Margaret grew up!

Traditions may vary, but giving a keepsake at this wonderful time of year is a great way to kick off the spring season.

This year, I am using a basket that has been a favorite for several years now. It is a standard bearer and seen its share of eggs and grass - real and not so real. I did not change it this year, but I did add a little something that my Mother made, probably in the 1950's.

While Mom has been gone for over 5 years, I still find items that she created. She loved to sew, crochet, and especially, tat. She tried in vain to teach me to tat, but that shuttle was just beyond me. I remember her slipping the silver tool in and out, up and down and all around creating lovely lace.

I found several of her handkerchiefs and most of them were full of holes. That was really sad for me because none of these lovely laced items had ever been used. I don't know what the fabric is, but I suspect that it is some sort of cotton.

Here is a photo of us in May of 2003. She just had her hair done, and managed to pinch one of the male hairdressers in the tushy about 3 minutes before this photo.

She was one feisty lady! Here are some of the items she created. I did not realize just how breath taking these were until I gently rinsed and pressed these hankies. Only the bottom one is crocheted.

And here is the basket, adorned with a gift that took over 50 years to find its way to someone special.

I love the parasol and it sure goes well with a little girl's Easter Outfit.

I know that many of you are working or considering working on a Bible Cover as an Easter gift. I wanted to show you some wonderful ideas that are ON SALE for 30% off! (My personal favorite word.) This first one would be excellent for Easter and all year round.

One can nearly see the light shining through the design.

If you have a Baptismal in either the past or future, I loved this design for its simplicity. A Bible Cover with this, or as a framed project would be a wonderful heirloom.

And, I have a bride's shower coming up soon. I am getting her a nice cookbook. I will be making a cover for it, and I thought this design (and any of it's mates) would make a great design.

Best wishes to you and yours, Pat