Can you believe it, I started my blog here on 5/9/2008.  Things have changed a lot and it really is an exciting time in embroidery.

I remember when I started that I wondered if I could come up with 3 ideas for blogs.  Somehow, I have managed nearly every other week for that long. 

I recall being worried when I first tried free standing lace (blog) (fsl).  I figured it would be some sort of disaster but it turned out lovely. I did not do this particular fsl, but I believe with a little effort, it can be done!  Regular fsl just requires rinsing and drying of the lace, this Swan does require some starch.  How beautiful it is.

Here is a freebie -

Later, I went into my monogram (blog) period which I found to be very fun and my creativity even surprised me.  I created several interesting monograms. Here is one in which I used 'foam', the kind you can get at any fabric store.  It is pliable and available in so many wonderful colors.

Here is a Monogram Frame Freebie -

I cannot forget the time I tried 'Candlewicking (blog).'  Normal Candlewicking is done with heavy cording on fabrics from burlap to fine linen.  The original method is shown here.   Embroidery uses a multi-stitch method to create the density required to be worthy of such a name.  This photo shows a hand method and the 'beads' in the arch are the machine generated stitches.

Here is a Candlewicking Freebie - Just in time for the Summer Season.  This would be excellent on a Pillow Sham!

Thank you for Five Wonderful Years.  I sincerely hope you were able to learn and use some of my ideas.  I wish I could talk with each one of you in person and learn from YOU!  We all have something to share, please add your comments in the area below. 

I look forward to many blogs to come.  To be sure, putting a site with all the supporting people and resources, is costly.  I hope you do find opportunities to buy where you learn and share.  You have my deepest appreciation.

And, HERE IS MY GIFT TO YOU!  If you have ever considered selling your embroidery projects, if you think you might be in a position to make a profit, this spreadsheet is for YOU.  My Embroidery Cost Analysis Kit is on sale!  For one week only, for my readers, this spreadsheet is half price.  It comes with instructions and a worksheet that works with Excel or Apache Open Office, Calc.  Open Office is a FREE and complete software very comparable MicroSoft Office. 

Thank you again.  I love doing this blog and I hope you enjoy reading it.  Tell a friend, share the fun.

Now that I am a grandmother, I can look back and see what I did right, wrong and strange with my children.  We have all had good and bad to deal with.  I see my children parenting my grandchildren and am impressed that they do as well as they do.  I am very impressed as to how they deal with everything given the things that happens these days!

The one thing that I know for sure, if I had the chance again, I would make it Mother's Day All Year for my Mother.  I want the world to know that she was perfect as she was, warts and all (well, she did not have warts, but you get the idea).  She single handedly endured, persevered and created a stable life for my brother and me.

You may also know that I am a big fan of the AlphabetXpress that AnnTheGran offers.  I wanted to do something new and different and I think I found it!

Those colors are OK, but seeing something done correctly in coordinating colors is a eye-opener for me!

** As I have noted before, I wish I were a good colorist, but until I am, I RELY on packages like these .  AND, also The Incredible Threadable Boxes have FREE SHIPPING right now (have you seen what shipping costs these days???) from Madeira - a highly trusted thread and color expert.

I can only think of a zillion ideas for this type of work.  Totes, wall hangings, new born babies, children, Bible verses, and so much more.  BTW, without Alphabet Xpress, you will need a MUCH MORE EXPRENSIVE software!

Alphabet Xpress, Madeira and me, an unbeatable combination - IMHO,

As a Newbie (we love YOU and we were all where you are), I can read your questions and remember when I asked the same things.  It does not matter how much you sew; or how much you have spent on your equipment and supplies; it does not matter what you know about embroidery; machine embroidery is different from anything you have ever done.

The good news is that science is telling us that when we learn something entirely new to us, it is keeping our brains healthy by exercising it with new things.  Sewing/gardening and other activities are great, but our brains need new challenges. 

You have found a wonderful way to give yourself new ideas and issues.

One facet of embroidery is the hooping. There is much discussion about the 'dos and don'ts' of hooping, and I am here to give you some of my findings from my experiences and what I have learned from others.

Let’s start with some specifics about hooping with which we might all agree:

•  Always use the smallest hoop which will accommodate your project
  • Movement from the machine, needle and the hoop can cause some shifting of the fabric creating alignment issues.

•  A flat, sturdy space larger than your hoop is required to complete hooping
  • You are creating a good basis for your work area.
•  Make sure your hoop is free of any glues or other debris
  • Clean with a cloth or cotton swab with rubbing alcohol or vinegar will remove many common glues.
•  Replace a hoop which is damaged in any way
  • A damaged hoop will mar your project and your machine as well.

•  Check and mark the grain of your fabric before hooping
  • You will want to work with the manufacturer's lay of the fabric. 
•  Utilize hooping aids such as double faced tapes made specifically for sewing
  • Use all the tools you need, Picasso had more than one brush and paints and other items to create his work.
•   Not all projects can successfully be hooped
  • Any fabric with a nap or loops will need to be outside of the hoop.  Items such as towels, foam, leather or plastics must be handled attached and not in the hoop as well.  Hoop burn is difficult to remove.

•   Not all projects need to be hooped
  •  Very small items like baby projects can be done with a light spray of adhesive and/or basted to the stabilizer. 

Together with stabilizers, the hoop is equally important to prevent poor registration of a design.  I can remember my initial attempts at doing FSL with similar results to my photo.  My disappointment stemmed from the fact that I was 95% done with my project before I could see that it failed.  The reality is that it failed much earlier, but it was not very visible.  Of course it is always possible that the digitizing has some variance, but that is very rarely the case. 

Frequently, there is more than one way to accomplish any goal.  Different methods are neither right nor wrong, just different.  I personally have hand issues and hooping can be difficult for me.  For fabrics which are heavy, slippery or in other multiple ways, difficult to handle, I use a hoopless method. Hoopless sewing is not for all projects.  Once again, a ‘Discovery Sew’ (testing out your project) will be your best guide. 

This photo is a simple method of hoopless.  I was embroidering on a small tote that was difficult to hoop because of the size and the seams involved.

In this case, I simply hooped some tear away stabilizer and attached it to my machine.  I placed my fabric on top of the stabilizer which had 4 pieces of a product such as “Wonder Tape.”  I then sewed a basting stitch around the area where the design would reside.  You may also notice that I have clamped the sides to keep them from getting into the design.  This simple method would work for stable fabrics such as denim and woven fabrics.  It is a little less expensive because I am not using my adhesive stabilizer.

The next hoopless option is for t-shirts, slippery and/or stretch fabrics.   I won’t discuss the stabilizing because we covered that on my last blog.  I did, however, start with hooping an adhesive stabilizer.  While this stabilizer has grid lines on it, the grid lines

will be cut away before I place my fabric.  I will be doing my own grid line for placement. The pins are only secured in the top fabric.  My objective is to have a stable fabric where I will accurately place my design. 

Next, I will be combining my fabric and stabilizer.  The hoop is also given a grid line. 

After lining up my grid lines, I have finger pressed my fabric to the stabilizer.  I then place a medium weight, water soluble sheet on top.  Basting is not required here.  I might add basting and/or stabilizers if there is an opportunity to make the whole project stronger.  In this case, I feel it has reached its stability.  I also have placed a ‘no-show mesh’ under the hoop, just as I would have done if I had hooped the project. 

Once you do a hoopless project, you just may be hooked.  I know that I am.  I only use hooping when necessary and that is not too often.  Fabrics like silk can get a ‘burn’ from the hoop and towels and heavy fabrics can be damaged.

•  Bonus:    Before you do your next project, I recommend that you take your largest hoop and place it on a flat surface.  Release the tension screw and notice that the gaps are not perfectly even.  Increase the tension a few turns at a time and notice that your hoop is compressing, but not necessarily evenly.  All hoops will have some variance and it will be helpful for you to know where those gaps might occur in a regular project. 

•  If you have a lot of gaps when your screw is reasonably tight, you could utilize a gripper like is used in cupboards to keep dishes from slipping.  It is not expensive and sold in rolls.  If you need something like this, be sure to cut the gripping in strips and use them on opposite sides for balance of tension.

I know that this is an embroidery blog but sometimes, you just gotta learn about the little things you will need when you give your beautiful gift.

When you see the beautiful bows at a special event, I always figured a magical, nimble-fingered elf came when no one was looking and creating the bow that was not lopsided and picture perfect.  AHA!  I found the answer, the elf has given me the trick!!!  I was actually able to create my best bow the very first time. 

Start with about 40" (1.01m) of fabric ribbon.  The paper types of ribbons work fine as well, but it is easier to work with fabric ribbon for your samples.  Paper types will have some wrinkling. 

Layout your ribbon as shown.  Most fabric ribbons are the same on both sides, but some may be different.  Begin with them showing (up side) their right sides in a "M" shape.

I have used two different colors so it is easy to see, believe me, when I saw the drawing in black and white, it was difficult to follow!  Place the right loop over the left loop.  Make sure to keep the middle of the "M" in place.

Take the right loop under the left and BACK UP through the middle of the "M" loop (I am pointing to it).  It is the only way you will get a knot of any type, so if you miss the loop, start over.

The results look like a mess but it is correct.  Next you make sure that your loops are on the correct side and then work toward pulling the loops outward.  This is where the long tails really help.  If the tails are too short, you cannot pull the loops out to their appropriate position.  If needed, work loops and tails back and forth so that the knot becomes engaged.

Do lay out your pieces as they will eventually lay in a completed bow.  This is all taking longer to say than it will take you to make!

After you practice some of these, it won't be necessary to have to rework as much, but initially, keep your end bow in mind as you work.

Here is one side of the bow - -

And here is the other side.  As I worked through my bows, I often found the back side to be more attractive but you may find it different.  How about this one in organza?? I think the wider the ribbon the more dramatic the bow.

The last thing you need to know is that I have not been able to determine how to create a bow that has something attached, like this towel.  If you observe all the 'pretty as a picture' bows for sale, you will see that there is either an attachment like a 'twist tie' or they are simply an adhesive flat back.  I always assumed that there was no 'loop' to stuff my towel into because they did not want to give me extra ribbon or too short a loop to use on a package.  That is not the case.  I worked with this for several hours trying to make it work with a box but could not do it.  I could use a VERY long middle tail on a box but the bow did not work.

Moral, this bow on the towel is for 'showin, not usin.'  I took a piece of ribbon to wrap around the towel, twisted it and attached it, with a safety pin or craft glue would have worked, and the bow was ready for its debut.

This time, I am also showing one of the Freebie designs that is really an outstanding design.  Freebies normally are not very innovative, but this one IS HEAD AND SHOULDERS ABOVE THE REST.

Obviously, this is a button hole.  Why do I think it is special?  Well, last summer I had my favorite shorts with a little problem.  It had a metal latch and a metal grabber and the latch gave out.  Now this was not like a 'hook and eye' because it was much larger.  The hole that was left behind was making the shorts unwearable.  Recycle Time!  Then I took this design and used it to make a sturdy button hole for my garment and I have my favorite shorts back again!  This design is from Ann's Club.  So, believe me when I say that being a member has its priviledges.  It is absolutely worth the cost and after all, you can pay $10 for something that is not worth a dime or a little more and have excellent value.

Alphabet Xpress is on sale this week.  From the very reasonable price of $59.99 down to $35.99.  Let me tell you about my experience. 

I recently changed from a BabyLock 10 needle home machine to an SWF/E-T1501C, a 15 needle commercial machines.  I actually thought that it was going to take my embroidery to a new level.  The software was $5,000 and appeared to be a good program. 

Very long story short, the Alphabet Xpress is head and shoulders above the $5k software in lettering.  I am not using the expensive program, I am using AX.  I have been embroidering for over 12 years and AX is excellent.  It does not do any designs but for lettering, ♪ ♪ ♪ nobody does it better! ♪ ♪ ♪

The origins of monograms were very regal.  Monograms were generally used as a signature and on coins. The artists of the Middle Ages used them to sign their work.  Eventually, a monogram became a symbol of one’s place in society.  Today, monograms are everywhere including on the leather of a prestigious car - the manufacturer's monogram.

At one time, rules for monogramming were narrow, and followed the configuration as “ACB” with the center letter being the last name.  Today, the more casual use of monogramming has fewer rules and certainly not limited to fabric or coins.  To me, nothing is more elegant than a well placed letter on stationery, cuffs, a candle or anything that is not nailed down.

Etiquette varies from time to time and even country to country.  This is considered by some to be the American version:

Classic, chic and without an equal, monograms have stood the test of time.  Even Laverne could not make a monogram tacky; she wore hers when she was dressed up!

At the risk of being plummeted with non-monogrammed shoes (yes, shoes), I am going to list a few of the ‘rules’ I try to follow:
Rule #1 – there are no rules. . . .
Rule #2 – when the client says they want them upside down, refer to Rule #1.

Some of the Rules of Monogramming:

• For Life Partners, I encourage the use of just 2 initials, last names only and the order is their choice.  Charles Adams and Sam Brown:

• For those combining both names, I do recommend a hyphen, I personally like them.  Charles Adams and Diane Brown:

• For both people with hyphenated last names, I recommend the second letters with a hyphen in the center, and both first names.  I think these are falling out of favor. Charles Smith-Adams and Diane Johns-Brown:

• For names with apostrophes, I recommend using just the first initial, i.e., O’Connor would be “O.”

• For names with ‘De’ or ‘La,’ I recommend using ‘D’ or ‘L.’

• For someone wanting something a little different, I recommend a “stack” style where the first and middle are stacked one over the other and the last name a large letter matching the size of the two stacked ones.   Adam Bob Carter.

• I personally prefer a single letter.  You already knew that!

• I also find two letters, first and last to be a nice combo as well.  Anne Adams

• For a really unusual monogram, I would place one letter directly over another. I don’t encourage that because of density issues.  Alena Spalding.

Well, I was anxious to start doing some projects and I had a sheet of ‘foam’ left over from a different project.  This foam is similar to the mouse pad that you are using right now.  I have washed that mouse pad, so I felt the foam would be suitable for embroidery too.

The piece of foam is a 2 mm weight and I am going to use a thread color to match it.

I started off by using a font that had a wide satin stitch.  I felt that would be an easy stitch to work with.  I created a standard monogram and then I placed the same design atop the foam that was just set on the fabric.  I was delighted with the results.  I also tried a letter with both satin and running stitches.  I left the inside foam but could just as easily have removed it.  There is less impact with removing the foam because the monogram "P" only has a small portion with the satin stitch.   The more narrow sections is still a satin stitch but too slim to have an effect.

Tip:  The foam fell away from the satin stitches, but at the bottom of the letters, you must be careful when you clip the leftover foam.  If you clip the threads, you will want to use some “Fray Check” to keep the stitches from coming off.

Tip:  If you decide to keep the foam with the design, you may want to have some adhesive to keep it in place.  It came right out of the inside of the P and A, so for the Script P, I would have used some glue.

Since these were test sewouts, I was not concerned about perfection.

I played with some other available fonts and outline designs I had and I really like the results.  I might even try this on the card paper from Kiwi. .  or metallic thread?  or under appliqué?  or on a towel? or . . . .

I am off to do some more testing, and if you do these, show us the results.  Don’t forget, you can upload your photos to "Galleries" for us all to enjoy.  I also recommend that you put a little message in the Forum letting us know that it is available.

Every time I check my email, AnnTheGran has something more that helps a crafter do better work on quilts.  One of the biggest reasons that I have not, up to this time, does quilting is because of the binding.  I cannot sew a straight line and binding seemed to be rocket science to me.  This week there is a special on the Ultimate Quilt Binding Combo.  I really like the very small binding.

Lastly, here is a Freebie from right here at Ann's place.  There are a couple of things that I really LOVE about this Landmark Embroidery Design. 

1. The detail is so beautiful.  I will use a deep brown rather than the black, but that is no problem.
2. There are many designs of people that are more life like (as apposed to being cartoon like or stick figures)!
3. If you have young people in your life who may feel like embroidery is 'old fashioned' you will find so many designs that WILL be of INTEREST TO THEM.  There are tattoo like designs that will be wonderful on a t-shirt or jacket.   With over 300 designs, there are so many that will delight that teenager in your life.

There is something interesting about 'Newbie' mistakes, we all make them AND, sometimes the most experienced embroiderer can make them as well - during a moment of forgetfullness.

If you have been reading my blogs for awhile, or read some of them (listed on the left side), you know that I am a big promoter of using the best equipment available.  There is are good reasons for this - let me count the ways -

• Using the wrong equipment does not help anyone - I have used a knife as a screwdriver, but I now have a number of knives that are just slightly bent at the tip.
  
• Doing things manually may have been great for the pioneers, but candle light is for mood lighting, not doing detailed workmanship. 
• If a carpenter comes to my home to do work but has a dull hand saw, I figure he is not terribly successful, he cannot afford a good saw and he has not figured out to 'sharpen' tha saw.
• Successful crafters and/or DIY persons need supplies, knowledge and the right tools.  There is no such thing as an inexpensive craft - well - not many and they are generally suitable for 8 year olds.
• YOU deserve to have a hobby - passion that is truly fulfilling.  Remember all the years you put everyone else first?  It is now your turn!

Another issue of significance is the thread used in your project.  There are so many thoughts on this one as well.  Here are the ones that easily come to mind.

• Trying to use the wrong type of thread.  Use of embroidery thread is an absolute.  However, there are other things that can also happen.  For instance, using the wrong weight of thread is a favorite of mine.  As you are aware, I do bridal hankies.  The small stitching of lettering requires a much lighter thread and needle than you would use for a embroidery design.  It goes beyond that when you find that your coverage is too high or too low for a 'field' of stitches.  This is why a 'discovery sew' (aka stitch out) is important.  You need to see how the design and other ingredients will work together.  It is just like making a cake, change one ingredient and you have a whole different product.
  
• Using specialized threads like metallic or silk threads which require special handling.  The metallic blog discusses multiple ways to handle that thread with excellent input from my readers!  That input is appreciated a lot!!!  I hope you add your thoughts that you would like to share at the end of this blog. 
  
• Make sure you are using the same thread throughout your design.  Mixing polyester and rayon is asking for trouble with puckering.  That is not the only issue that causes puckering, but it will make trouble for your project.  I will be writing a blog on that very soon.  While the sheen for polyester is not the depth of quality of the rayon, polyester is working at closing the gap but has not happened yet. 
  
• Speaking of sheen, remember that the method of stitching creates the 'lay' of the stitches which will change the look of the colors and sheen of your project. 

These may sound like minor issues but they can and will be the cause of a failed project.  That is not an option.  My time and work are worthy of wonderful results.

Speaking of great items that are necessities, Ann has Peggy's Stitch Eraser with a SPECIAL value for this week.  They are offering free shipping and membership in Ann's Club.  I know this is sold all over the Internet for $89.95 and $99.95.  Ann's price - $79.95.  That is value.  Don't forget to check out my Blog it shows just how to use the Stitch Eraser.

Here is my selection for the free design and 'spot light' designer this week.  It is from Concord Collections and it illustrates the changing of the stitch pattern/slant will change the sheen of your thread.  What is really special about this design is the fact that it is in a 'primitive' form but the shading and stitching makes it a quality design. 

And, Starbird Designs is also on sale, at 40% off, you really need to check them out.  I keep things in my 'Wish List' and when on sale - - I am on it!

While I don't do quilts myself, I always enjoy and appreciate the work done by the talented people who do.  The work that goes into a quilt has to be a labor of love.  Since the operative word here is 'labor,' I keep thinking that it is too much work to squeeze into my schedule. While looking at quilts, I found this one - -

But, I keep seeing things that are so tempting.  If you quilt, I wonder how you even chose the one you want to do next.  Do you select just from the scraps you have around your sewing area (and probably stashed around the house).  Do you see something on the Internet and copy it?  Or do you select a kit and get the project that is user friendly and ready for the compliments and praise?  Do you decide in advance if this heirloom will be a quilt for a bed or wall hanging. . . .

I have been looking at the kits that are available and frankly, I am amazed.  Since I don't consider myself to be any sort of quilter, I decided to go to someone who not only makes quilts, but appreciates them for all their warmth and beauty.  Marge, aka, marsuz. 

Marge has probably been here as long if not longer than I have, you will see her frequently in the Forum helping with questions and encouraging others - she remembers being where a newbie is!  Additionally, one of her quilts was on the Janome site for sometime showing off the workmanship of both the machine and especially the creator.

I asked Marge several questions and she cheerfully gave me so much good information that I am excited to share with you today.

Pat:  Is there some tip about doing the panels that you wish you had known from the beginning of your journey?

Marge:  When putting them together the sections, work them as you would a quilt block. If one is a tad longer than the another, work it in so they end up the same length.  Also you can always do satin stitches around the edges.  I do one with a border, it is like looking through a window with panes. 

Pat:  What is the largest number of panels you have done?

Marge: 16

Pat:  I noticed that some have 'edges' on every panel and some not.  Is there one that is better than the other? 

Marge:  I really like doing the edge or border on scenes.  When doing animals I wouldn't put a border on.


Pat: Do you need to block your finished design?

Marge:  No

Pat:  Have you ever done one for someone on commission?  With all those stitches, how do you know what to charge? 

Marge:  I don't charge by the stitch, it is by the piece and it would depend on who it was for. I just sold one for $150.00 and last month I sold one for $300.00.  It was one I didn't want to sell but the buyer was adamant about it so she paid more. LOL.  I will never get rich doing them but I do enjoy them so.

Pat:  It seems like you do a lot of large pieces.  Do you do other things?

Marge:  If it can be embroidered, I probably have done it.  I like making patches that can  be appliquéd on things.  I find that on some items, putting a patch on is the best method to achieve the desired results.

Marge:  I have made the golf design twice, one was for my grandson and the other one was for a friend who lives and breathes golf.   

The American wild animals was for me.  I  also made one very much like it for my daughter, hers was wolves and American Indians.

 
Pat:  Do you give away (gifts) most of your work?  I know that family and special friends can be your recipients with a great deal of love.  That is win-win, you get to do what you love and they get something they are going to love.  Creating something for others has been done for centuries.  Women nurtured their loved ones through their hand work.  It is wonderful that it continues today despite the busy lives we all lead.

Marge:  I do probably give away 70% of my work.  Most of these 'windows' have anywhere from 640,000 to 896,000 stitches in them.  If I was to charge $1.00 per 1,000 stitches I would have to charge from $640. and up.  I know of very few people who would pay that.  Single designs are easy to sell and I don't charge as much as anyone else I know but I do have people coming back for more.  Anyone who wants an embroidery business can't sell these big pieces of work, they have to do them like I do, for the love of creating. 

Just thinking of the amount of time it takes to create that many stitches makes me dizzy!!  (Actually, it is really cold here in San Diego, I would love one of these right now!)

In celebration of the love of quilting, AnnTheGran is offering BOTH Free Shipping and Free Quilt Grid on selected Quilts.  This is my personal favorite:

So, when is a quilt not a quilt?  When it is a loving work of art!

(My freebie is coming right up!)

Now, I want to show you my freebie for this blog - she has stars in her eyes!:

She is really beautiful!  I do want you to notice that she has "candle wicking" all over this pattern.  If you are not familiar with that stitch, check my blog on candle wicking.  One thing I feel that this design portrays is the quality of the designs that are FREE here at AnnTheGran.  While you are at it, you may want to look at Bella-Mia-Designs for the beautiful designs available at a reasonable price.  You probably can find something - there is over 22,000 designs just by Bella-Mia-Designs!!!

I have been doing this blog for nearly 4 years and I still love doing it.  I would never have thought that I would ever say that!!!  When I first started, I figured I had about 6 to 8 ideas in me and then it would be over with.  At this time, I have completed 108 of them.  Geeze, I may have done more laundry, but never had this much fun. 

I always want to remind my readers that I am just sharing my love of embroidery.  I am not an expert, nor do I have any tricks that will change the universe.  I do have a joy for embroidery and writing and they fit together very well (at least for me).

With Valentine's Day just around the corner, I want to share something I find to be a super gift and a super savings. 

First the gift - Here are some freebies from right here at AnnTheGran:

Blue Floral Embellishment:   

Floral Heart Embellishment -

And, my favorite, Heart Wings: 

If you are not a member of the Club (Ann's Club) you are short changing yourself.  The facts are that:

• You are entitled to 3 designs per week.  With a total of 10,526 designs, you will have to download for a total of 3,509 weeks - 67 years and 5 months to get them all.
• Those Half-Price Stabilizers are very reasonably priced.  I did a blog on them, where I compared other stabilizers - totally at random.  I found that Ann's prices were an excellent bargain. 
• New designs every week (that 67 years is going to be longer. . . . ) 
  
• Club Phrases - You can see the latest items at the Club site.  These Phrases are in assorted sizes which may not sound too exciting, but doing something for a poster versus a hankie is a digitizing challenge.  Each has their own methods and procedures.
• Ann's 85 fonts that can be used individually.  (These are not keyboard fonts.)  However, with 25% off, doing "Happy Birthday" with names and dates are quick and easy.
• AlphaXpress and the fonts which are keyboard letters is reasonably priced at $59.99 with an 8% reduction for Club Members.  Likewise for the 50 fonts, have a discount of 8% as well.  It is easy to use and very modest in price.  Competitor X, which is the next in price is set between $100 up to $170 and only has 30 fonts.
  

Why would I select three of the (already free) Freebies from the selection here at AnnTheGran to give to you?  Well, the answer is simple.  I am a very firm believer in patronizing where I am learning my cherished craft.  We all know that there is no such thing as a 'free' lunch. Here are some of the significant items that may not have already occcurred to you:

• The example of these three designs so intricate.  Some sites don't offer nearly as many but if you see the quality above, you know you may not find something this nice elsewhere.  These are not the 'left overs,' they are really beautiful.  Additionally, there is everything from angels to zebras with so much in between.  The selection is incredible.  Even if you only selected 5 per month, at around $5 per design, the math is that you would have $300 in free designs by the end of a year for which you paid $59.99.
• The stabilizers are of the very highest quality.  I have been studying them for the last year trying to find quality at a lesser price.  I CANNOT beat Ann's Stabilizers.  

It takes a village to raise a child and a community to support a really good site!  I hope you agree with me.

While the media has died down regarding Sandy Hook Elementary School, my heart is still aching for all involved.  This type of pain cannot be dismissed or delayed.  It is present and will always be a sad memory.  Time will heal some of the feelings, but never the photos and thoughts.  I personally still think of those who will never fulfill their lives from the various incidents around the world. 

I think of diplomas, weddings, births, and so many other things that won't happen. 

We can treasure the time we did have with them and remember the smiles. 

The Parent-Teachers Organization for Sandy Hook is planning for the return of the precious children with a 'Winter Wonder Land.'  It will be done with the things that are familiar to children world-wide for the winter time like snowflakes, snowmen and sleighs traveling through the woods in the chill of the winter day. 

As embroiderers, I know that you will want to participate in your own way.  If you have not been able to think of something to do, I recommend that you consider doing something in embroidery.  A free standing lace (FSL) is the perfect item but I hope that you also dream up something interesting as well. 

I have several FSL snowflakes, snowmen and sleighs but I want to do something more. 

The above are not FSL, but I think that using something like felt cloth, a white tote bag, perhaps an apron for a service person to wear, attached to a canvas, foam sheets and anything you can imagine.

Please try to remember not to include holidays, Christmas, Chanukah, Kwanza or other things like angels.  This is a celebration of winter only. 

Send your creation to:

Connecticut PTSA
60 Connolly Parkway
Building 12, Suite 103
Hamden, CT 06514

It needs to arrive before the opening of school on 1/12 but they also need to receive and prepare the area, so the sooner the better. 

Embroiderers are the best of the best.

Thank you and I look forward to blogging in the New Year with great enthusiasm.

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I love doing this blog and I love Calvin and Hobbs as well: 

Let's just say that they understand me very well! 

Needles are the challenge that keeps on giving - over and over.  Let's think of the questions possible:

·         Is it a bad needle right out of the package? 

o   Closely inspect the needle under a magnifier and good lighting.

o   Because the needle (most of them) has a flat side, place just the needle (not including the shaft) on the edge of a flat surface and roll it to see that it is straight and not damaged in any way.

·         Is it dull - how many stitches have I done?

o   Many machines have a 'counter' available.  (When was the last time you went through your manual to refresh your memory of where the counter is?)  If you don't have a counter built in, you can put an index card under the machine and put the date and an approximate number of stitches - say 33K and keep adding.  I used to change my needle around 200,000 stitches. 

o   Take into consideration the fabrics you are using as well.  If you are doing heavy denim or vinyl?  Those cut directly into the number of stitches on a needle.

o   Be sure you are buying your needles in bulk.  At a 5 pack, they are expensive.  However, if you get 100, they cost about the same as 3 -  5 packs of regular needles.  After about 15 of them, they are FREE.  Toss them!

o   Be sure to dispose of carefully, needles are not nice sometimes. . .

·         Is it sticky, gummy or have a burr on it?

o   I clean a needle that is sticky with the:

§  Oil from my hair (run thumb and first finger through your hair and on the needle.

§  Rubbing alcohol on a Q-Tip

§  Use a different adhesive, spray or self adhesive stabilizer.

§  Toss the needle.  My time is limited, how about you?

·         Did it get bent somehow?

o   A bent needle is a major accident waiting to happen.  Remove it immediately

o   Bending can be caused by the thread being too tight on the upper threading.  I actually have had a spool of thread (the ones with the slice on the bottom to hold the thread) catch and hold the thread.  It does not even matter which way the slit was facing either.

o   There is no way to press the needle back into service, bending it back will not correct the issue.

·         Why are the needle holes visible?

o   You are using too large a needle. 

o   The needle has become dull.

o   Change your needle.

·         Is the thread path correct?

o   This is a personal favorite of mine!  When your machine is working at 500 or 600 stitches per minute, it is bound to be in motion at least a little bit.  I am always careful to put my thread in the correct position, but it can and may jump just enough to make you crazy.   Furthermore, you can look at it and not see the culprit.  If I am having needle and/or thread issues, I suspect the pathway.  It only takes a few seconds, rethread.

If you are still having needle issues, check out this blog to refresh your memory about what embroidery is supposed to look like.  In addition, I am sure you have had some sort of issue which I have not noted here.  After all, if it can happen, it will.  That blog includes such items as a tension test for the various formats as well.  Testing tension should be part of your normal maintenance of your machine.

Using good tools such as needles and quality thread is the best path to results that you will be very proud to show or give. This special from Madeira is a value that anyone can use.  Getting samples of quality stabilizer is the best part.  Try before you buy.  I have tried and do like Madeira thread above all others!

I really appreciate your reading my blog and hope you find a few ideas and thoughts that help you along the way. To Teach is To Learn and I have learned so much for all of you, THANK YOU!

Best wishes to you and yours for a joyous and safe holiday season.

I work with a lot of people in the embroidery community.  I work with names you will recognize and some you won't know.  Lindee Goodall is one of my favorite people.  Lindee (I love that name) is a no nonsense person who does multiple things in embroidery.  She teaches, she writes blogs and books, she digitizes and in her spare time, she enjoys meeting her fellow embroidery enthusiasts at events all around the USA and beyond! 

There is one thing that I know about 'enthusiasts,' they are enthusiastic!  There are many right here at AnnTheGran.  There is Diane Brown (you can check on this link to see how not to lose small items.) who is a caring wife, mother and grandmother.  She does a great deal for her family - - - does that sound familiar to any of YOU?

My personal favorite it Debbie SewBlest.  Click to see her ideas for holiday giving to a child's teacher.  She has only been blogging for a little over a year but she is truly a great idea person.

Then there is Eileen Roche, Click on that link if you miss her blog on 12 house hold items that make great tools for embroidery.  She runs the Designs in Machine Embroidery Magazine, Stitchin Sisters Events and still makes time for AnnTheGran.  Super Woman!!!

Here are my observations, in no particular order, from my own projects and my SWF, 15 needle machine.  Remember, we are seeking some information regarding Rayon v. Polyester:

• Everyone can and/or will have a little different experience with their project -
• Thread is one of the culprits that will make things go well or badly -
• Every machine has its own personality which is very human-like, sometimes kind and sometimes a little unkind -
• Some of us buy thread that is 'on sale.'  The 'sale' can mean many things (not limited to just these):
  • The company wants to sell a new variety of its products -
  • The company (my personal favorite) has taxes due and needs funds -
  • The company knows the thread is a bit on the old side, making it on the dry side -
  • Or a lot of other reasons.
• Many of us have both rayon and polyester in our stashes of thread.

Here is where the serious question of rayon v. polyester comes in.  Let's say you are doing a design that has multiple colors which you can match.  However, some are rayon and some are polyester. 

Here are two roses with similar colors but the left is done with Rayon and the right was done in Polyester.  It was done with the recommended tension and the appropriate stabilizers.  The polyester may have looked just fine in the hoop but upon removal, the stretch of the thread and fabric just might result in some puckering. 

Frankly, many people don't notice puckering unless it is pointed out to them.  Many people are not 'schooled' in what good embroidery should look like.  After all, some of their grandmother's hand embroidery may have puckered as well.  She actually may have not been perfect either!

Imagine how a project might look if you were mixing thread types!  I do recommend that you stick with the best threads you can get.  The Internet has many places to get excellent thread.  I totally recommend getting 'thread sets' for a very important reason - they are color coordinated (saturation, hue, lightness, brightness and contrast) and blend beautifully together.  Take my word for it, not having good colors together can be just terrible.

This is a great set.  It is excellent for your holiday projects and beyond!!!

Just a last word, when was the last time you backed up your designs?????  Get to it!

I know it is really nice to see how to do some of the coolest projects, but I often have trouble finding out how to fix a problem.  There are so many issues when it comes to trouble shooting an embroidery mishap.

I figure if I have this problem, whether frequently or occasionally, others must as well.  So, I am tackling my way to handle these two problems.

First - Did you ever have a project that left an open area? 

Some might look like this -

That gap ruins a project.  In the above case, it was just a practice, I was trying to figure out how to put a name in the sash.  But if it had been a sale from my shop, it would have been a disaster, especially if the fabric was not replaceable! I know that sometimes we might try using a dark pen but that does not always look good either.

This next one is a job that had to be fixed.  Ergo, my tip -

I will be fixing it with a needle and the embroidery thread but here is the tip - I make sure that I have multiple threads for the mending.  This is what our mothers and grandmothers did when they darned the socks, it was done with multiple threads.  I am showing two strands here, but I don't stop at that.

I will be clipping this loop making my needle eye filled with 4 separate threads.  It is easier to trim than to try to thread a needle with looped thread.

I did have to use a threader because the 40 weight times 4 was getting to be a little thick.  Additionally, I want to be sure that I don't make too large a hole in my project.  (The hole will relax and close after the repair but if the hole is too large, it could be a problem.)

Now, I am up to 8 threads!  I had tried fewer but the results were never good.

The original, failed hole is still there.  I have to move it over to the left or right at least a single weave.  I am only going to make a single pass on this particular repair.

I had attached the original start threads by passing them through the adjacent bottom threads.  I did the same with the end of the threads, weaving them in adjacent bobbin thread.  I remember reading somewhere that jeans manufacturers often leave short tails on some stitches because short tails do not fall out of fabric easily.  It has to do with not being long enough to catch on something and being pulled.

My end result is a 'period' that looks original.  If I have a tricky fabric like a chiffon or silk, I would not make the periods in the digitizing, I would add them later.  Holes in some fabrics can be disastrous.

With the project above, I would be doing the same but laying the needle in the same direction as the original stitching but multiple times to cover the area.  Hopefully, the bare spot is not large. 

Tip #2 - I personally have a very hard time with sticky paper.  I am reminded of a cartoon where someone uses adhesive in any manner and ends up all tied up and almost in a mummy like condition.  I can do that with my eyes closed - - - perhaps that is the problem. 

I was beginning a baptismal embroidery for a client on a fabric which was very light weight.  It would be fine for embroidery, not likely to ravel or anything, but the fabric had no body. So, I was about to use a piece of adhesive backed cutaway stabilizer.  And, yes, I do use AnnTheGran's Stabilizers.  They are high quality, and if you are a member, you CANNOT beat the price.  Here is my blog on the comparisons if you want to review it.  As I have said repeatedly, I would never recommend something I did not appreciate and use.  My word and opinions matter a great deal to me.

I am going to cover the entire fabric piece.  This is not terribly big, but there are times when you will be working with a larger palette and in need of a functioning way to handle sticky items.

I have used a straight pin to score the bottom corner.  The pin must be sharp and a small area is all that is needed to set the layout.

I took the corner of the fabric  and laid it squarely on the adhesive but only needed to catch the bottom, scored corner.  If I had taken all the paper off the adhesive (which is a LOT of trouble) I could not have repositioned the two pieces multiple times.  When I had it as I wanted it, I can remove more - but not all - of the covering of the adhesive.

I can smooth out the fabric with confidence and can reposition as needed.  Being able to have total control of the adhesive is new to me.  I am thrilled because the fabric looks excellent.

I finish by tossing the paper and now I have a single piece of fabric to work with.  That is a significant improvement over trying to get two individual pieces to do my bidding.

There are no bubbles or gaps of any kind!!!

Lastly, I am going to 'float' a piece of tear away under everything but not even attached to the hoop.  Floating is one way to make sure that your project has enough stabilizer.  I am convinced that it is very hard to over stabilize a project but it is a disaster when you under stabilize your project.

My fabric was a little narrower than my hoop.  I needed that hoop because of the length, so you may see that the sides are a little 'soft.'  I tear away the bottom stabilizer [see my blog on tear away stabilizers "What the stabilizer sellers aren't telling you"] and my project is ready to send to my client.

I love doing this work.  I love sharing what I do with you.  I always do some research on my blogs but mostly, the blogs are my experiences.  I feel like I am sitting with you, having a cup of tea and discussing your projects as well as mine.  That is what this blog is for me, I hope you feel the same.

It seems to me that when I watched my mother sewing, she did not have dozens of needles, she had a package of 5 needles and I don't remember there being another package around.

Now I have 4 different types of needles for my machine and occasionally need something that I don't have on hand.  How did we get into this needle mess?  Well, just like other things, the world is more complex than it was just 50 or more years ago. 

Just how does one decide on a good needle?  Just what are the issues that one needs to know for the best results in embroidery?  Just how do these needles make things better? 

Let me count the ways needles (as well as other aspects) make or break your project:

• puckering
• skipped stitches
• thread loops
• thread breaks
• thread shredding
• needle breaks
• holes in your fabric
• cuts in a knit fabric (resulting in snags and unraveling when worn or washed)

Here are a few factors to keep in mind when selecting your needle:

1. FABRIC  When planning your project, consider fabric weight, thickness, weave type (woven or knit), weave density (close weave or loose weave) and composition (natural fiber, synthetic or a blend).

2. THREAD  Embroiders mostly use a 40# weight thread for most designs. For a more detailed discussion of thread weight, check out this blog. Occasionally, you may have need for a 60# thread for use on details in a project that are small like eyes or floral seeds.  You will most likely be using a rayon, silk or polyester thread.  Rayon and silk are appreciated for their sheen but polyester is closing up that gap very rapidly.  For the information of the pros and cons of each thread type, check this blog.

3. NEEDLE STYLE  Embroidery work uses either an embroidery needle or a universal needle.  I personally only use embroidery needles but I understand that Universal work fine as well.  One word of caution, always use a ball point needle for knits.  If you use a sharp, it will cut the thread which weakens the weave and subsequently will cause a 'run' or hole in your knits.

4. NEEDLE SIZE Most embroiderers use either a #11 or #12 needle.  Embroidery needles are mostly size #12.  However, if you are having problems with shredding thread, it can be a good idea to increase the size of the needle.  The size refers to the width of the needle only, not the length or other designation.

The Imperial size is the one used in the USA.  Below is the guide from Klasse Needles.

Needle Guide

All  machine needles are stamped with the needle type and size. The needles are stamped on the curved side of the needle shank with metric and imperial sizes followed by relevant needle mark codes (K0, K1, K2, etc).  This is the information on the Klasse Needle.

Each needle brand has its own marking methods.  Check the Internet for the brand you prefer.  The above suggestions can be wrong for your project, it really depends upon too many factors to make a definitive decision.  Additionally, what works for one person, may not work for you.  But reviewing this information can help make a more beautiful embroidery project for which you can be proud.

Using the right tools for the project is always the best idea.

Sooner or later (probably sooner) everyone has it happen - the ooops, the hoop was not exactly tight enough and your partially completed - and very expensive/special/treasured - project slips out of the hoop.  I can honestly say that this has happened to me and the more expensive/technical/delicate my project is the more likely it is to have a hoop problem.  I think it happens because I am so focused on the expense/technique/delicate issues and the hoop is just not getting the attention I normally would.

It does not matter what type of a machine you have, it can happen to any of us.  So, here is my tip to fix it and save your project!

Here is my design sewing on the machine.

Here is the loose hoop.

And after just a little movement of the machine, it is gone from its position.

You know, if you have been reading my blogs, that I am a big fan of Badgemaster.  This hoop loss needs something that will hold stitches, can be seen through and will go away when you are done.  That is not a small request because there are few stabilizers that can do everything that is needed.  Here is my first blog on Badgemaster.  That blog includes my comments after the 3 years it took to use Badgemaster up. 

Here is my second roll.  You will notice that I have a desiccant (used to absorb water or humidity) that I got in another item.  I put it with my roll to help keep it dry.  It will be used up in 3 years but I don't want it to get damp or wet in the mean time. 

Next, I will hoop just the Badgemaster.  It is strong and will take multiple stitches in the same place and NEVER fail.

Now I will start the design over again on the Badgemaster.  I did not go as far as the original sew out but  I should have done just that.

The easiest step of all is to match up the problem project with my Badgemaster sewing.

Once they are matched perfectly, I will pin or baste by hand the project to my stabilizer. 

Back to the machine for a perfect finish and my project is saved. 

There was a little bit of red tails left on one of the pieces, I should have trimmed them because they got caught in my final design.

Here is some more good news.  I use my fingernail or anything that is rounded on the edge and lift off the Badgemaster.  You will notice that the tear away is quite firm but not impossible.  That is a sure test of the strength of the stabilizer. 

It tears very cleanly.  I know that some of my 'tear away' stabilizers have left fuzzy edges and/or lint behind or been too easy to tear away thus destabilizing the stabilizer at work.  Not a good situation! 

Here is my finished project.  You cannot tell I had any sort of problem with it!  Hope you are using Badgemaster, you will always appreciate its high quality.

You can use this trick for placement in the same manner.  Just start with the Badgemaster design and leaving it in the hoop, baste or pin your project to your Badgemaster.  Quick, easy and fool proof.

Just for a short time, All About Blanks (and our favorite Mommie) is on sale, so this is a great time to get started on your holiday gifts.  Everyone needs towels!  (Did you know that no one ever throws away a towel?)  People keep and use towels until they are thread bare, so now is a great time to give a new one to someone special!

When I initially got my first machine, there was so much to know and understand that I remember feeling totally excited and entirely over whelmed. I actually got my first machine on EBay - my first mistake for sure.  But it looked like fun and I had several grand daughters, so I was on my way.

After started to feel comfortable (and I use that term loosely), I decided to reread that manual that came with my machine.  I cannot tell you just how the manual intimidated me in the beginning with all those terms and words that are not in any dictionary.  They might be a little more familiar but they still were just a little out of my realm.

I did find that my favorite (eventually) feature was the 'frame' - sometimes known as a 'border' and even called 'baste.'  In any case, it does the same function.  The first function is to create a frame for a monogram.  Here are some of the options, of course your machine will vary:

1.       The frame is usually shown as a simple circle or square.  It has many variations so you will never get bored!

2.       The options in the frames are generally the circle, square, heart, perhaps a shield and depending on your machine's designer, other interesting designs such as a diamond shape.  Those can be elongated or changed to fit the item you will place inside.  You are NOT limited to a monogram, you can put a flower or maybe a small race car making it terrific for a towel for a little boy.  (Males are notorious for embroidery issues, so this one is a great idea for a single male as well.  Well, maybe or maybe not a race car. . . . )

3.       Next, we can change the width of the design and/or the density.  The programmer has created a design but you can make it more your own with small changes.  I did make my design at 4.6mm.  Incidentally, I have gotten used to using the Metric system for a number of reasons, the most of which is that it is easier to divide a selection by 10 than the fractions in the English systems.  As an added bonus, an inch is 25.4mm, so changes to the inch is a cinch.  If I am trying to adjust something 5mm, it is easier than adjusting 1/5". 

4.       So, here is the border/outline/frame.  OK, I am an ASU fan, it is maroon and gold.  I always love to have my color pop off the fabric.  If I were doing a towel to give to a young man going off to college, the towel may be Navy Blue with white and gold for the frame.

5.       Here is the fun part.  Use a design that is of interest to your recipient (don't forget doing things for yourself too!).  I selected a sailboat because it is easy and not fussy.  Of course, the initial border is centered, the sailboat is also centered automatically.  Sometimes when you combine two designs, there can be challenges, but not with this one.

6.       Even if your college bound friend is already there, what would be more fun than sending a surprise towel set.  No one else will have one like it, I promise!

I have to say, when I saw the Hoop Dock on the Home Page, I was excited.  I have been needing something like this for a long time.  AND, if you think the price is too high, think of the number of times you struggleds with hooping - check the video!  Additionally, Neoprene is a petroleum product and that price is excellent!